Blogs

Exploring the Muslim Community in Ladakh: Medina Tenour Whiteman’s Unexpected Journey The summer following my return from a year of linguistic immersion, the travel bug had sunk its teeth deep into my skin. With a modest surplus from my student loan, I felt a compelling urge to extend my journey. It had become an obsession; my previous travels seemed insufficient, a mere prelude rather than the transformative experience I craved. A few French and Belgian friends were gearing up for a trek in Ladakh, a region that, while politically part of India, is culturally and ethnically Tibetan. The prospect intrigued me not for the hiking but for the opportunity to […]

The Paradox of Progress: A Call for a Reimagined Economy In the shadowed valleys of the Indian Himalayas, where the winds whisper tales of ancient wisdom, Helena Norberg-Hodge found herself ensnared by a paradox of modernity. The year was 1975, and a vision of pristine Ladakh—a land untouched and serene—beckoned her. It was a vision of stark contrasts, where the creeping tendrils of Western influence began to suffocate the vibrant essence of a timeless culture. Norberg-Hodge, an intrepid seeker of truth, was initially drawn to Ladakh as part of an anthropological expedition. Enraptured by the region’s profound simplicity and harmonious existence, she chose to entwine her life with its rhythms. […]

Girl Guides in Ladakh: Explore the Markha Valley and follow the path of pioneering female trekkers in a high-altitude adventure. In the remote and rugged expanse of Ladakh, where the Indian Himalayas stand as silent sentinels, we embarked on a trek under the guidance of a remarkable woman—Thinlas Chorol. In a region where tradition and taboos intertwine, Thinlas has become a beacon of change, breaking through the barriers to become the first female trekking guide in this isolated corner of the world. The journey began in the quaint village of Skiu, nestled in the Markha Valley. It was day four of what was shaping up to be an unforgettable trek, […]

Turtuk Tourism: The Village Split by a Border In a place where social media and mobile phones are absent, family members who live apart send each other recorded video messages on flash drives via postal mail. When the first tourist stepped foot into Turtuk, a small farming village cradled between snow-capped peaks in India’s remote Ladakh region, he was welcomed with baskets brimming with ripe apricots, shimmering silk scarves, and a choreographed folk dance. The year was 2010. “Everyone was so happy then,” recalled Ismail Khan, 35, owner of Ismail’s Homestay, one of the now approximately 20 accommodations in the once-secluded village. “It was the first time we had seen […]

Echoes from a Moonland: A Visual Odyssey in Ladakh Belgian photographer Yuri Andries captures the surreal essence of Ladakh, a mystical region in northern India. A serene Buddha gazes over Ladakh, India. PHOTOGRAPH BY YURI ANDRIES Nestled in the remote northern reaches of India lies Ladakh, a mystical “Moonland” characterized by its stark alpine desert. Hidden within this barren landscape are Tibetan Buddhist monasteries, overshadowed by some of the world’s most majestic mountains. Isolated for centuries due to its geopolitical location, Ladakh only welcomed tourists in the 1970s. Today, photographers like Yuri Andries journey to this once inaccessible realm to unveil its enigmatic contrasts through his series, Moonland. After hours […]

Whispers of Resilience: Ladakh Cultural Preservation – Explore the enduring traditions and innovative practices in Ladakh that sustain its rich heritage amidst modern challenges. Nestled between the icy embrace of the Karakoram range and the sprawling majesty of the Himalayas lies Ladakh—a land of rugged splendor where the relentless advance of global consumerism is making its mark. Nicola Graydon delves into the profound struggle of the locals as they strive to protect their cherished heritage. Likir, a serene village a mere three-hour drive west of Leh, embodies a scene of almost surreal beauty. Perched at an altitude of 3,500 meters, it unfurls like a lush sanctuary, contrasting sharply with the […]

The Best Lessons in Climate Diplomacy are Learned from Himalayan Villages The glacier above Kumik is rapidly retreating, and the community is facing tough choices. Photo: Jonathan Mingle “How on earth do these people manage to survive?” This was the question British geographer James Claughton continually pondered during the winter of 1976, spent in the remote Himalayan valley of Zanskar in northwest India. It is a valid question. Zanskar is a very harsh place at any time. The average elevation of its few dozen villages is 12,500 feet (about 3,800 meters). The only connection to the outside world is a 160-mile (about 260-kilometer) jeep road that is closed by snow […]

Ladakh: The Lair of the Snow Leopard In the northern reaches of India, an American wildlife photographer and a BBC tracker, each driven by the chase of the legendary gray ghost, lead an expedition. Their eyes, sharpened by telescopic lenses, fixate on a silent assassin nestled in a crevice. His face bears the scars of three days of blood, and as dusk approaches, hunger compels him to rise. Reluctantly, he rises, crouches low, and moves toward the summit to scout for his next prey. Here, in Hemis National Park on the outskirts of Leh, his primary target is the Himalayan blue sheep. Technically, the blue sheep is neither blue nor […]

One of our team members climbs the ice stupa in Shara. In Sanskrit, “stupa” means “heap” and traditionally refers to structures that house Buddhist relics. For thousands of years, stupas have been constructed from materials like wood, stone, clay, and brick, ranging from simple domes to elaborate tiered towers. The first ice stupa was created in 2013 in Ladakh, Kashmir. Ladakh is a high-altitude desert surrounded by the Himalayas, and its villages rely mainly on glacier meltwater. With glaciers retreating due to climate change, water flow has become unpredictable. Sometimes there is too much water causing flash floods, while at other times there is a severe shortage. The ice stupa, […]

The Dark Sky Sanctuary near the border between India and China houses the Himalayan Chandra Telescope. The photograph, captured in 2018, shows Mars approaching Earth, an event that occurs once every two years. Photo credit: Dorje Anchuk Under the clear night skies along the India-China border, a sense of hope for the future stretches across the heavens. Written by Rag Kurnad and Anmol Tiku, September 19, 2020 Ladakh, often referred to as “the Roof of the World,” is one of the highest regions on Earth. Despite the dangers of altitude sickness, severe cold outside the summer months, and narrow roads prone to landslides, its breathtaking beauty is well worth the […]