The Lonely Yak and the 52-Hertz Whale
I was eating chapati somewhere between Rumtse and Tso Moriri when something large appeared about ten metres to my left. At first I thought...
Essay
Where Light Learns to Breathe: Ladakh and Nan Shepherd
There is an hour before the first warmth reaches a Ladakhi village when the land seems to be holding its breath. A dry hillside...
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Essays
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Thoreau on Simple Living: What Walden Still Teaches Us
There is a photograph of a small cabin that has become much larger in the imagination than it ever was in wood. Henry David...
At Home in Ladakh: What a Homestay Teaches You About the Himalayas
A Ladakh homestay is often described as a place to sleep. That is the least interesting thing about it. The first mistake is to...
Before the Horses Began to Run: A Day of Polo in Chuchot
Before the horses began to run, there was bread, an omelette and chai. I had left for Chuchot on a scooter because it was...
Information
Ladakh Trekking Gear on a Budget: What to Buy, Rent and Bring
The cheapest trekking kit in Ladakh is not necessarily the kit with the lowest price tag. It is the kit you can rely on...
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Information
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Suru Valley in Ladakh: The River, Villages and Nun–Kun Peaks
There is a moment on the road beyond Kargil when the familiar image of Ladakh begins to change. Dry slopes still rise overhead, but...
Ladakh Meditation Caves: Phuktal, Saspol and the Himalayan Tradition of Retreat
The phrase “underground monks” sounds irresistible. It is also the wrong place to begin. Ladakh does have a deep tradition of Buddhist retreat in...
Leh Town Guide 2026: The Complete Local Guide to Leh, Ladakh
Leh is often treated as a place to land, sleep for two nights, arrange permits, and leave for Nubra or Pangong. That misses the...
Ladakh Travel Guide 2026: Permits, Altitude, Routes, Culture & Practical Planning
A current Ladakh travel guide for 2026 covering acclimatization, permits, routes, seasons, seven districts, culture, festivals, food, pashmina and responsible trip planning.
Journeys
Stongde to Char via Phuktal Trek: 4-Day Zanskar Route
A 4-day Zanskar trek from Stongde to Char via Stongde La, Shade and Phuktal Monastery. The walking section now finishes at Char rather than...
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Journeys
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Suru Valley Glacier Trek: 7-Day Kalapari Lakes Trek
A 7-day supported Suru Valley trek from Kargil and Panikhar through Chumak/Chumik and Kalapari, with glacier-fed lake terrain, remote camps and four trekking days....
Zalung Karpo La Trek: 9-Day Markha to Dat Traverse
A 9-day Leh-to-Leh high-altitude journey built around the Zalung Karpo La Trek, linking Markha and Hankar with the remote Langthang valley, an approximately 5,200m...
Rangdum to Lamayuru via Kanji La Trek - A 7-Day Ladakh Adventure | High-Altitude Trek
A 7-day, roughly 94 km high-altitude crossing from Rangdum to Lamayuru via Kanji La, Yokma La, Nyigutse La and Prinkti La. The route combines...
Zingchen to Stok La to Stok Trek A 4-Day
A 4-day camping trek from Zingchen to Stok via Rumbak and Stok La, a high pass commonly reported at about 4,855–4,900 m. The route...
Stay
Discover Tranquility at Abapa House: Your Choglamsar Homestay Haven
Escape the tourist crowds and experience a rustic retreat near Leh Town at Abapa House. Enjoy authentic accommodations in a traditional ancestral home with...
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Stays
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The Nyamshan house
An organic and eco farmstay in Stok village, around 17 km from Leh, offering a restored traditional Ladakhi-home experience, home-grown food and a quiet...
Farm Stay in Stok
A peaceful farm stay in Stok with two bedrooms, a kitchen, and a living room included. The full private space is available from ₹5,000...
Ldumra OASIS
Dumra Oasis offers peaceful lakeside accommodation in Hundar, Nubra Valley. Enjoy private rooms with bathrobes, slippers, and stunning views. Just 78 miles from Leh...
Hidden Valley Homestay / Stakmo village
Discover Hidden Valley Homestay in Stakmo, just 21 km (40 mins) from Leh. Enjoy stunning mountain views, a peaceful garden, and eco-friendly Ladakhi hospitality....