When you set out on a long hike, where and how do you sleep?
About 30% of New Zealand’s South Island is government-managed land, enveloped in national parks and various reserves.
A network of tracks crisscrosses the island, and there are approximately 650 huts scattered throughout. These huts were initially built to provide accommodation for government-employed deer hunters tasked with reducing the population of deer that were ravaging the forest undergrowth.
In the early 1970s, helicopter hunting proved to be more efficient, and these huts are now used by recreational hunters and mere hikers, known in New Zealand as trampers.
Over time, many new huts have been constructed, and old ones have been demolished and rebuilt.
Take Bluff Hut, for instance. There’s a good chance you’ll have it all to yourself. The cost? A mere five dollars a night.
The map shows contour lines at 20-meter intervals. It’s steeper than it looks.
Huts are preferred as accommodations for sleeping. They come in various sizes and levels of amenities. The huts managed by the Department of Conservation today typically offer beds with mattresses, some form of heating (usually wood burners nowadays), benches and a few seats, and a nearby water source. Water is often collected in rainwater tanks (supplied from the roof) or sourced from nearby streams. Typically, brooms, firewood axes, and saws are provided. In most cases, a long-drop toilet is located a short distance from the hut, but more advanced huts sometimes have flush toilets. While faucets above sinks are uncommon, pricier huts generally have them. To conserve water, you usually need to fetch it from an outdoor tap.
What you won’t find are electricity, WiFi, mobile phone reception, hot water, and for European readers, places to buy food or alcohol. You carry in everything you need on your back and carry out all your trash. You’re expected to clean up after yourself—no one wants to arrive at a pigsty of a hut.
New Zealand’s weather is notoriously changeable, and the huts are often situated in high-altitude areas, making them generally cold and damp. They are not ideal for camping. Typically, you can leave your tent at home, except when heading to very popular locations or when fine summer weather is forecast.
New Zealand is almost unique in that its backcountry is free from dangerous animals. There are no bears, wolves, snakes, or spiders to worry about. At worst, you’ll encounter sandflies—small biting insects, and you’ll definitely experience them.
There are many huts that are seldom visited. Most operate on a first-come, first-served basis, but if a group arrives late, they will be squeezed in somehow.
Popular huts, such as those along the Great Walks, require reservations and typically have wardens to check if you’ve paid the fee. The priciest huts, found along about ten of the Great Walks like the Milford and Routeburn tracks, charge New Zealand residents $70 per night and double that for non-residents.
Some huts on popular tracks provide firewood and charge $15 per night, but the majority cost $5 per night. Remote, very small, or older huts are often free.
I usually purchase a backcountry hut pass for $122 a year, which allows me to stay in the $5 or $15 huts without any additional charges. Given the amount of time I spend in the mountains, it’s a significant saving compared to buying individual tickets.
So yes, huts are preferred as they offer protection from the weather, making it possible to go without a tent. Often, I hike for over a week without needing to find a place to sleep.
In summer, camping is also an option. With the exception of the Great Walks, you can generally camp freely on Department of Conservation land. There are plenty of great spots to pitch a tent.
Here are a few examples:
Anchorage Hut in Abel Tasman National Park’s Great Walk. $38 for New Zealand residents, $75 for non-residents. It has flush toilets and four-person rooms.
Devils Den Bivvy. A new hut for two people at the best price: free! It offers a water tank and a simple toilet. There’s no heating, and it sits above the tree line.
Crystal Bivvy. No mattresses. You can’t stand up inside. Water comes from a pond. No toilet. It has been renovated since these photos were taken, but the size remains the same.
If camping is necessary, well, there are plenty of suitable options.
Ultra-remote camping on Stewart Island/Rakiura.
All images are my own, from the backcountry huts.
