Namgyal Tsemo (rnam.rgyal.rtse.mo)
A rocky hill overlooking the town of Leh, crowned with a fortress ruin and a gompa. At the base lie the old royal palace and a cluster of temples. A pathway leads up to the base of the site.
Tsemo Namgyal Potrang
The fortress ruin perched on the summit of the rocky hill. Built in the late 16th century by King Tashi Namgyal, it is in a state of severe disrepair, and entry into the interior is prohibited.
Tsemo Lhakhang
A small temple adjacent to Namgyal Potrang. The views from here are stunning. Inside, you will find statues of Chuchik Zal and chortens. The highlight is actually the door frame at the entrance, intricately designed with intertwined snake motifs—a rare design in Tibetan culture.
Tsemo Gompa (rtse.mo.dgon.pa)
A small gompa situated directly below Namgyal Potrang, consisting of two temples. It belongs to the Gelugpa sect of Spituk. Monks do not reside here; instead, young monks from Sankar Monastery come daily around 8 AM for cleaning and lighting lamps. Visitors have a brief window of about 30 minutes to view it.
Gon Khang
A white structure built in the late 16th century by King Tashi Namgyal. The main deity is a giant Dorje Jikche, surrounded by numerous wrathful deities. The wall paintings, in the New Guge style, date back to its foundation. The wrathful deity statues with almond-shaped eyes are reminiscent of those found in West Tibetan monasteries like Trin and Tsaparang.
Tsemo Chamkhang
A temple with red walls located below Gon Khang. It houses a large seated statue of Jampa (Maitreya). Although the murals are modern, they are exquisitely crafted. The exact date of its construction is unknown.
Leh Chen Palkhar (Leh Palace, gle.chen.dpal.mkhar)
A nine-story royal palace that serves as a symbol of Ladakh. It is said to have inspired the design of the Potala Palace in Lhasa. Built in the early 17th century by King Sengge Namgyal, it suffered extensive damage during the Dogra War in the 1830s. After the kingdom’s collapse, the palace was abandoned. Highlights include intricately carved wooden pillars and the magnificent castle gate.
Palkhar Lhakhang
A small chapel within the palace complex. Managed by a single monk from the Hemis-based Drukpa sect, its main deity, Dukar, has a fierce expression. No murals are present.
Temples Around the Palace
While not widely known, there are four temples near the palace. Three are from the Hemis-based Drukpa sect, while the Jampa Lhakhang Marpo is associated with the Gelugpa sect of Spituk. All temples are open only during the morning and evening, offering limited viewing opportunities.
- Duddul Chorten: An octagonal-based chorten located west of the palace, built to protect the palace from evil spirits.
- Guru Lhakhang: Situated below the Duddul Chorten, the temple houses a statue of Guru Rinpoche and is said to have mandala wall paintings.
- Lhakhang Soma: A small temple facing a terrace, constructed in the 19th century. It contains statues of Guru Rinpoche and other deities, along with murals.
- Chenrezi Lhakhang: Known for its large 3.5-meter statue of Chuchik Zal and a giant thangka of Guru Rinpoche. Entry is based on donations.
- Jampa Lhakhang Marpo: This temple features a large 14-meter seated statue of Jampa, flanked by Chenrezi and Jamyang. Though once adorned with murals, they were destroyed in a collapse. Donations are appreciated for entry. The construction date is unknown.
Jami Masjid
Located at the northern end of the Main Bazaar, this mosque can accommodate around 500 people. Built in the late 17th century by King Deldan Namgyal under Mughal pressure to adopt Islam, it has undergone multiple renovations, resulting in a modern appearance. The surrounding area is inhabited by Ladakhi converts to Islam, Kashmiri merchants, and other Muslim groups like Argons.
Leh Jokhang/Gompa Soma (gle.jo.boi.khang)
A modern gompa in the heart of Leh, unaffiliated with any specific sect. Built in 1957 by the Ladakh Buddhist Association, it also houses the association’s headquarters. The spacious interior features a statue of Jowo Rinpoche brought from Tibet. Entry is donation-based. The site is surrounded by a mani wheel corridor, constantly visited by pilgrims. Ceremonies such as Losar and Monlam (held around May) take place here.
Mani Sermo (ma.ni.gser.mo)
A prominent yellow chorten among the group near Polo Ground. It follows an ancient celestial style and is believed to have been built by Rinchen Zangpo in the 10th–11th centuries.
Leh Dosmoche
Celebrated on the 28th and 29th of the Tibetan 12th month (around February), this festival marks the agricultural New Year and prays for a bountiful harvest. Its highlight is the “Torma Sol” ceremony, where a large “Do” (threaded torma) is burned to ward off misfortunes. The event features masked dances performed by monks from Thiksey and Takthok monasteries.
Changspa (byangs-pa)
A village northwest of Leh, now an emerging hotel hub. Despite the development, it remains a tranquil and green area.
Tashi Gomang Chorten (bkra.shis.go.mang.mchod.rten)
Located in a forest near a stream, this 15-meter-tall chorten features six-tiered platforms with 72 chambers in total. Its origin is unclear but may date back to the 14th–15th century, similar to the Tashi Gomang chorten boom in Central Tibet. Nearby, a 2-meter stone pillar features carvings of Jampa and chortens, possibly from the 7th–9th century.
Shanti Stupa
A modern stupa atop a hill west of Changspa, built in 1985 by Japan’s Nipponzan Myohoji order in an Indian architectural style. It offers panoramic views of Leh and is a popular tourist destination. Accessible by road, the site also includes a temple with Japanese Buddhist statues and accommodation facilities for visitors.
Sankar (gsang.mkhar)
Located 2 km north of Leh, a 20-minute walk. The gompa is somewhat difficult to find.
Sankar Gompa (gsang.mkhar.dgon.pa)
A small Gelugpa gompa under the Spituk sect. It is open only in the morning and evening. Built in the early 20th century by the previous Bakula Rinpoche, it is relatively modern.
- Dukhang/Tsankhang:
After ascending the front steps, the first floor houses the Dukhang. Inside are statues of Shakyamuni, Tsongkhapa, and others, with rough-textured murals. The Tsankhang at the back contains a statue of Chuchik Zal and several old bronze statues to the right. - Kylkhor/Dukar Lhakhang:
By climbing the side stairs next to the porch, you reach the second floor, directly above the Dukhang. This is the Kylkhor, with banners and thangkas adorning the walls. The adjoining Dukar Lhakhang contains the main deity Dukar and smaller statues.
Tisseru Stupa
Further north of Sankar Monastery lies the ruins of a massive 20-meter-tall chorten. Its official name is tu.bkra.shis.od.mtho or tel.gser.po. Built in 1425 by King Lachung Dak Bumde to quell an outbreak of disease, it is said to have housed 108 small shrines, resembling the Tashi Gomang style of the Gyantse Palkhor Chorten.
Spituk (dpe.thub)
A village 8 km from Leh, en route to the airport, located at the foot of the rocky hill where the gompa stands, near the Indus River. A private minibus service operates every 30 minutes from Leh.
Spituk Gompa (dpe.thub.dgon.pa)
Officially known as Galdan Targyeling (dga.ldan.char.rgyas.gling), this is the main gompa of the Spituk-based Gelugpa sect. Sankar and Stok monasteries are branches of Spituk.
Although commonly attributed to King Ude of Guge in 1024, historical evidence suggests the Spituk Gompa’s true foundation is connected to Dak Khawoche Monastery across the Indus River. In the early 15th century, Tsongkhapa’s emissaries were welcomed by King Dak Bumde, who established Spituk Gompa as Ladakh’s first Gelugpa monastery. Its major expansion occurred in the mid-to-late 15th century under the abbot Sampu Lhawang Lodro.
Situated dramatically atop a rocky hill, the gompa is surrounded by numerous monk quarters on the steep slope leading down to the village.
- Gon Khang:
The oldest structure, built in the 15th century, located at the summit. - Dukhang and Chokhang:
Rebuilt in the early 19th century, these main halls house the monastery’s primary deities and new murals. - Chikhang:
A newer temple completed in 1977, containing modern statues and excellent craftsmanship.
About 120 monks are affiliated with this gompa, though relatively few are permanent residents.
Notable Features of Spituk Gompa:
- Kushok Bakula Rinpoche:
The incarnate lama of Spituk Gompa, believed to be a reincarnation of Bakula, one of the 16 Arhats (Neten Chudruk). He was a prominent figure from the Ladakhi royal family and served as an MP and ambassador to Mongolia. - Dukhang/Tsankhang:
The central prayer hall features a sand mandala platform on the left. Statues include a large Dorje Jikche and Shakyamuni with intricately adorned toranas featuring Garuda and flying apsaras. - Chokhang (Jowo Lhakhang):
A second-floor chapel housing a Jowo Rinpoche statue surrounded by numerous thangkas. - Gon Khang:
At the summit, the Gon Khang features large statues of wrathful deities, including Dorje Jikche and Gonpo. The 15th-century murals, though damaged, are a precious example of New Guge-style art. - Spituk Gustor Festival:
Held annually in January, this festival features Cham masked dances, the destruction of symbolic evil objects like the Dao, and concludes with the Torma Sol ceremony. A large thangka of Shakyamuni is also unveiled.
Pharka
A small village on the opposite bank of the Indus River from Spituk. It is home to an 11th-century rock-cut monastery called Dakhung Khawoche Gompa. Numerous rock caves dot the surrounding cliffs. Access is via a bridge from Spituk or by road from Stok.
Dakhung Khawoche Gompa (brag.khung kha.bo.che)
Meaning “snow-like caves on a rock wall,” this monastery belongs to the Spituk Gelugpa sect. It is unstaffed, with caretaking managed by locals. Entry is donation-based.
Although Spituk Gompa is often associated with King Ude of Guge in 1024, evidence suggests this site might be the original location.
- Mandala Cave:
Features large mandalas and a thousand-Buddha mural characteristic of the Guge style, though the artwork is heavily damaged. - Chanting Hall Cave:
Contains modern statues but lacks murals.
The surrounding area has many ancient chortens, including a row of 108 chortens nearby.
Q&A Section
Q1: What are the must-visit monuments near Leh?
A: Some of the most iconic monuments near Leh include Namgyal Tsemo Gompa, Sankar Gompa, Tisseru Stupa, and Spituk Monastery. These sites showcase the rich cultural and spiritual heritage of Ladakh, blending Tibetan Buddhism with unique architectural styles.
Q2: Why are chortens significant in Ladakhi culture?
A: Chortens, or stupas, are sacred Buddhist structures symbolizing enlightenment. In Ladakh, they often commemorate important events or serve to protect sacred spaces, as seen with the Duddul Chorten near Leh Palace, which was built to ward off evil spirits.
Q3: When is the best time to visit Sankar Gompa?
A: Sankar Gompa is open only in the morning and evening. Visitors should plan their visit during these hours to experience its serene atmosphere and explore its unique statues, murals, and artifacts.
Q4: What makes Spituk Gompa special?
A: Spituk Gompa is renowned for its dramatic location atop a rocky hill and its historical Gon Khang, built in the 15th century. It also hosts the annual Spituk Gustor festival, featuring Cham masked dances and rituals symbolizing the triumph of good over evil.
Q5: Are there any festivals held at Leh’s spiritual sites?
A: Yes, notable festivals include the Leh Dosmoche in February and the Spituk Gustor in January. These festivals feature traditional Cham dances, elaborate rituals, and ceremonies that attract both locals and tourists.
Q6: How accessible are these monuments from Leh?
A: Many monuments, like Namgyal Tsemo and Sankar Gompa, are within walking distance or a short drive from Leh. Others, like Spituk Monastery and Tisseru Stupa, can be accessed by local transport or private vehicles.
Q7: What is the historical significance of Tisseru Stupa?
A: Tisseru Stupa, built in 1425 by King Lachung Dak Bumde, was constructed to quell an epidemic. Its design resembled the Tashi Gomang style seen in the famous Gyantse Palkhor Chorten in Central Tibet.
Q8: Are there ancient rock-cut monasteries near Leh?
A: Yes, the Dakhung Khawoche Gompa in Pharka village is an 11th-century rock-cut monastery featuring mandalas and a thousand-Buddha mural in the distinctive Guge style.
Q9: What is unique about Namgyal Tsemo Gompa?
A: Namgyal Tsemo Gompa is known for its stunning views of Leh and its surrounding landscapes. The gompa also features rare Tibetan art, including intricately designed snake motifs on its entrance door frame, statues, and chortens.
Q10: What is the Spituk Gustor festival?
A: The Spituk Gustor is a traditional Tibetan Buddhist festival held annually in January. It features Cham masked dances, the destruction of evil (symbolized by the Dao), and the unveiling of a giant thangka of Shakyamuni.
