In the heart of Ladakh lies the secluded realm of Chiktan, not merely an administrative block of Kargil but a geographical and cultural sanctuary that sets it apart. Nourished by the Kanji Nala, this valley boasts a unique identity etched in the Ladakhi landscape.
Traversed by the Srinagar-Kargil-Leh national highway, the valley unfolds beneath the towering Namaikala (3737m) and Fotola (4094m), welcoming travelers from the Leh side. A 29-kilometer motorable road meanders through the Indus Sanjak, connecting to the Gaekon-Khalsi route that leads to Leh, offering motorists an expedited route compared to the challenging Fotola crossing.
The residents of Chiktan, known as Purigpa, find solace along the banks of Kanji Nala and its tributaries, relying on agriculture and livestock for sustenance. Clad in long woolen ghonchas, both men and women adorn themselves with silver jewelry, proudly accentuating their woolen attire, complete with brocade-rimmed woolen caps. United by the thread of Islam, they celebrate their cultural heritage through traditional folk dances and songs, a testament to their wholehearted dedication.
The valley’s topography, painted in a myriad of hues, perhaps inspired the renowned Dard colonist to establish his dynasty in this enchanting land. The succession of rulers governed the entire expanse of Sod and Chiktan until the Dogra invasion in 1834, leaving behind the remnants of their once-majestic castle, Razi Khar, now in a dilapidated state, a silent witness to bygone glories.
Razi Khar, erected by King Tsering Malik in the 16th century AD, crowns the hillock of the present Khardun hamlet. Crafted by the skilled hands of Chandan, a resident of Chorbat or Khapalu, the same architect behind the Leh Palace, Razi Khar stood as one of Ladakh’s finest palaces. Captured in A.H. Francke’s lens in 1909, the palace, mostly intact at the time, sadly succumbed to vandalism by local hands.
Beneath the hillock, an underground water tunnel, now blocked, descended to the foothills, channeling water from a spring. Chandan’s ingenious architectural prowess is still evident in the remnants of this half-ruined palace, a testament to his enduring legacy.
In the vicinity, Lhakhang, a Buddhist temple constructed by Lotsava Rinchen Zangpo in the Kashmiri/Indian style, stands in Xgang hamlet, now weathered by time.
For those seeking the allure of Chiktan, an inner line permit is a prerequisite, obtainable by submitting an application along with a photocopy of your passport and visa at the District Magistrate office in Kargil.
However, beneath the picturesque facade lies a tapestry of challenges:
- A populace leading an average life, not entirely content yet not in abject poverty.
- Harsh winters with temperatures plummeting below 25℃, demanding resilient survival.
- Reliance on traditional heating methods due to economic constraints, deterring modern alternatives.
- Limited electricity, available only for 4 hours at night.
- Educational and technological backwardness among students, lacking facilities like public libraries and internet access.
- Scarce entertainment options for children, with no playgrounds and limited electrical modes due to power shortages.
Yet, amidst these challenges lies an untapped potential for tourism, offering educated unemployed youths opportunities in guiding, providing homestays, and showcasing the rich Purick culture, often overlooked due to a lack of awareness.
The Purick culture, originating from Baltistan, weaves a cultural tapestry integral to Ladakh’s history. The narrative of Chiktan Razi Palace unfolds, revealing its architectural marvels, the enigmatic architect Chandan, and the rise and fall of kings. Shingkhan Chandan’s conflict with the ruling king, who severed his right hand after completing Razi Palace, echoes the intricate tales of Leh Palace, built by Chandan with his left hand a year later.
