Shey
Located 15 km from Leh. The name “Shey” means “Crystal.”
Shey was the capital of Ladakh before the establishment of Leh as the new capital. It is said that in the 10th century, the first king of Ladakh, Lhachen Palgyigon, made Shey the royal capital, and it remained so until the 15th century.
Even after the capital was moved to Leh, Shey was regarded as the birthplace of the royal lineage. In the 17th century, a royal palace and two monasteries were built in succession, further emphasizing its significance.
Facilities Available
- Lodging
- Dining halls
- Shops
How to Get There
- From Leh to Shey, you can either disembark midway from a long-distance bus or charter a car.
Shey Khar and Shey Gompa
A royal palace and monastery located on the ridge of a rocky mountain. Built in 1647 by King Deldan Namgyal as a tribute to his father, King Sengge Namgyal. The construction was overseen by Taktsang Repa.
The formal name of the monastery is Lachen Tsuglagkhang or Shey Khar Thub Lhakhang, belonging to the Hemis sect of Drukpa Buddhism. At the base of the mountain, there are small shrines, Nepalese-style chortens, and carved Buddhas, making the site rich in points of interest.
Features of Shey Khar and Shey Gompa
Shey Khar
A three-story royal palace. The wood carvings on the gates are magnificent.
Dukhang
Beyond Shey Khar lies the Dukhang of the monastery. There are no Buddha statues here, but the murals are remarkable. The murals depict a modern style, featuring the Buddha and 1,000 Buddhas encircling the hall. The mural on the front wall is a masterpiece, portraying deities such as Maitreya, Shakyamuni, Shambhunath, Vajradhara, and Chakrasamvara.
Dukhang Chung
Proceeding further into the Dukhang reveals an 11-meter seated statue of Shakyamuni Buddha. The walls are adorned with murals, but they are burned and difficult to discern. On the second floor, you can see the face of the Great Buddha of Shakyamuni (constructed in 1655). The walls are similarly covered with murals, which, despite their severe damage, display exceptional artistry. Among them, the murals of Sengge Drakpa (Lion’s Roar Avalokiteshvara) are rare and valuable.
Castle Ruins
To the northeast of the palace and monastery, further up the ridge, are remnants of walls and a fortress. The view from the top is excellent.
Dorje Chenmo Lhakhang
A small chapel located on the northeastern outskirts of Shey Khar’s rocky mountain. It appears to be under the administration of Thiksey Monastery. This chapel enshrines the protector goddess Dorje Chenmo and her transformation, Banden Lhamo. During Shey’s annual harvest festival (Shubra), a lama channels Dorje Chenmo in this chapel.
Nepalese-Style Chorten
Located on the western side of Shey Khar’s rocky mountain, this chorten stands at a height of 10 meters. Its design is unique and not seen elsewhere in Ladakh. It resembles a compressed version of the Boudhanath Stupa in Kathmandu, showcasing clear Nepalese influence. It is said that during the 17th century, when King Sengge Namgyal built Thiksey Monastery, artisans from Nepal were invited, and this chorten might have been constructed during that time.
Gyalwa Ringa (Five Tathagatas) Rock Carvings
At the edge of the rocky mountain, there are bas-reliefs of the Five Tathagatas carved into the cliff. The origins are unclear but are estimated to date back to the 7th to 10th century. Among Ladakh’s rock carvings, these are considered the most refined.
The figures, from left to right, are Rinchen Chunne (on a horse throne), Mikyopa (elephant throne), Nangpa Nanza (lion throne), Opame (peacock throne), and Donyo Doppa (Garuda throne). The hand gesture of Nangpa Nanza is not the usual Dharmachakra mudra but instead the Vajra mudra, making it rare.
Thubba Gompa
Located 400–500 meters in the direction of Thiksey from Shey Khar/Gompa, this monastery predates Shey Gompa and was built in the early 17th century by King Sengge Namgyal. It belongs to the Thiksey sect of the Gelugpa school and is also known as Dresthang Gompa.
It is not widely known that this monastery also enshrines a large statue of Shakyamuni Buddha. Compared to Shey Gompa, Thubba Gompa is more closely tied to the lives of the local villagers. During the Shupra festival, lamas parade through the village and perform their rites here to end their state of possession. Admission is offered as a donation.
On the 30th day of the Tibetan calendar’s first month, a mask dance called Shey Drul-lo is performed here.
Features of Thubba Gompa
Thubba Lhakhang
This shrine contains an 8-meter statue of Shakyamuni Buddha, said to be almost identical to the one in Shey Gompa. The statue was crafted by four sculptors invited from Nepal by the mother of King Sengge Namgyal, Queen Gyel Khatun. It is believed that the large Buddha in Shey Gompa was modeled after this one.
Tsepame Lhakhang
Located in a hollow on the first floor, this shrine enshrines a statue of Tsepame (Amitayus), which dates back to the 19th century. The first-floor walls feature ancient paintings of 1,000 Buddhas, while the second-floor walls display newer murals of various deities.
Dorje Chenmo Lhakhang & Palden Lhamo Lhakhang
Small chapels located on the second floor of the monastery. These chapels enshrine Dorje Chenmo and her transformation, Palden Lhamo, who are considered different manifestations of the same deity. During the Shupra festival, these chapels serve as the endpoint for the lamas’ procession, where they perform rites to end their state of possession.
Stone Carvings
In front of the chorten outside the monastery are eight stone carvings of figures including Shakyamuni Buddha, Maitreya, Chenrezig, and Nangpa Nanza. These carvings are estimated to date back to the 9th–10th centuries.
Clusters of Chortens
To the north of Thubba Gompa, in the wilderness known as Shey Thang, there are countless chortens—easily over 400. Most are of the “descending type,” with some in the “Tashigomang type.” There are also at least five rows of 108 chortens.
Shupra Festival and the Role of Lamas
The Shupra festival of Shey is held on the 10th day of the 7th month in the Tibetan calendar (August–September). This festival is not part of the Ladakh Festival. The lamas, who play a key role, are ordinary villagers in their daily lives.
On the morning of the festival, the lamas first channel Dorje Chenmo (Lhamo) at the Dorje Chenmo Lhakhang, located below Shey Khar. Mounted on horseback, the lamas then parade through the village of Shey, performing rituals at various shrines and offering divine prophecies to the villagers along the way.
By early afternoon, they arrive at Thubba Gompa, where they conclude their state of possession. The ceremony ends here.
In the square in front of the monastery, villagers gather for a lively celebration filled with drinking, singing, and dancing, which continues late into the night.
Stakmo
A lush, green village located about 5 km northeast of the valley between Shey and Thiksey. This village is home to the ancient Stakmo Gompa, a monastery of the Gelugpa sect.
Stakmo Gompa
A small monastery affiliated with the Thiksey branch of the Gelugpa sect. It is located at the lowest part of the village, surrounded by dense forests.
Built in the mid-15th century by Sherab Sampo, a direct disciple of Tsongkhapa and a native of Zanskar, Stakmo Gompa is the oldest Gelugpa monastery in Ladakh. This monastery later grew into what is now the Thiksey Monastery. Currently, Stakmo Gompa serves as a branch of Thiksey.
Monastic Features
- The monastery is quite small, consisting of several shrines centered around a courtyard.
- The main building contains about two shrines (likely a Dukhang and a Gon Khang).
- A shrine in the courtyard is adorned only with murals, which are of a modern style.
- The monks’ quarters located beside the main building are now in ruins.
Thiksey
Located 19 km southeast of Leh, Thiksey is a settlement along the highway, known for the towering Thiksey Gompa on a rocky hill. A bridge crossing the Indus River connects it to the village of Chushot on the opposite bank.
Facilities
- Accommodations: Available at the T-junction leading to the gompa, some with attached restaurants.
- Shops: Several shops along the highway, including a post office.
Getting There
- Buses to Thiksey depart daily at 8:30 AM, with a fare of INR 30 per person.
- Any vehicle traveling towards Manali passes through Thiksey, making it easily accessible.
Thiksey Gompa
The formal name is Tshulthim Namdakling, a majestic Gelugpa monastery perched on a rocky hill behind Thiksey village. It is an iconic symbol of Ladakh’s monastic architecture. The main temple stands at the summit, while the hillside is packed with monks’ quarters.
The gompa was built in the mid-15th century during the reign of King Lhachen Lodro Chogdan by Balden Sherab Dakpa (the nephew of Sherab Sampo). The location was chosen following a prophecy by Tsongkhapa.
The Gonkhang, rooftop Chamkhang, and Lama Khang are considered to be original structures from the 15th century. The Dukhang was constructed later, while the lower Chamkhang is a new addition completed in 1980.
The monastery houses around 100 lamas and is a large complex. Its size and the presence of caretakers make it visitor-friendly.
Chamkhang
Completed in September 1980, this new hall is famous for its enormous seated Maitreya Buddha statue, which is 15 meters tall, the largest in Ladakh. The statue is painted gold, with a serene and refined face, wearing a crown of the Five Tathagatas. The hall’s murals are modern but beautifully crafted.
Dolma Lhakhang
To the left of the Chamkhang’s porch lies the Dolma Lhakhang. It features a row of statues of Dolma (Tara). The shelves at the back contain ancient bronze statues.
Dukhang
A dimly lit, ancient hall housing the main images of Shakyamuni Buddha and Tsongkhapa. The Dukar statue in the rear left corner is particularly exquisite. Though the murals are somewhat rough, the three Yidams near the stone wall are imposing. The pillars feature images of Tsepame and Palden Lhamo, which are quite old, and the torana above them reflects Nepalese craftsmanship from the 14th–15th century.
Tsangkhang
Situated opposite the Dukhang, this area has the atmosphere of a Gonkhang, with a powerful presence. The main deity is Shakyamuni Buddha, with murals behind depicting Vajradhara Yab-Yum and other tantric figures. Numerous ancient mandala thangkas are also housed here.
Gonkhang
A narrow, elongated room filled with six wrathful deity statues, including a massive Vajrabhairava. The statues’ faces are veiled, and the figure of Vajrabhairava is muscular and dynamic, radiating intense energy. The murals depict a thousand Buddhas in a style reminiscent of the New Guge style seen in western Tibetan monasteries like Tholing and Tsaparang. These murals are likely from the 15th century, the monastery’s founding period.
Rooftop Chamkhang (Kangyur)
Lesser-known halls on the rooftop include the Chamkhang (Kangyur) and Lama Khang, which were likely used for divination when the monastery was first built. The Chamkhang houses statues of Maitreya and two yellow-hat lamas.
Lama Khang
This hall features four veiled wrathful deity statues and a figure of Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava).
Dukhang Karpo
Located below the main temple, this white-walled, elongated building contains statues of Shakyamuni Buddha, Maitreya, and chortens. Built around the 19th century, the front area features beautifully aligned eight-tiered chortens.
Chomo Gompa
A nunnery located at the edge of the rocky hill, home to the Chomo (nuns).
Zanla Latho
Near the parking area, there is a two-tiered square chorten painted red, likely dedicated to a local protective deity.
Thiksey Gustor
The Thiksey Gustor is a mask dance ritual held on the 18th–19th days of the 12th month of the Tibetan calendar (October–November). As with other Gelugpa ceremonies, the final day falls on the 9th of the sequence, hence the name Gustor (“Nine-Day Offering”).
Gustor ceremonies are also held in monasteries like Likir, Spituk, Saboo, Karsha, and Thonde. They follow the dance sequence from Tashilhunpo Monastery and focus on offerings to the Buddha and the destruction of Dao (effigies made of barley flour) to symbolize the eradication of obstacles and afflictions.
The main events are the two-day mask dances featuring:
- Large thangkas of Shakyamuni Buddha.
- Roles such as Hashang (monks), Hatuk (children), Atsara (clowns), and wrathful deities like Gonpo, Begtse, Jambhala, Namse, and Palden Lhamo.
- Specific to Thiksey, the protector deity Shugden appears.
The climax involves the deer-faced deity (Shawa), yak, and other performers destroying the Dao effigy, followed by burning paper effigies and a grand dance of the protector deities (Bakpa).
The festival concludes with the Torma Sol ritual, where symbolic tormas representing evil spirits are thrown into the fire.
Nyarma
Located approximately 20 km southeast of Leh and 3 km from Thiksey.
Getting There
- Take buses heading to Shakti or Hemis and get off midway.
- It is also possible to walk from Thiksey.
Nyarma Choskhor Gompa
The oldest monastery in Ladakh, now mostly in ruins. It was built in 996 CE by Yeshe-O of the Guge Kingdom, alongside Tholing Monastery and Khojarnath Monastery. These three monasteries are known as the Three Great Monasteries of Rinchen Zangpo.
At the time, Nyarma was under the domain of the Do family, who served the Guge royal house. Nyarma Monastery, along with Alchi Monastery, flourished as a center of Kadampa Buddhism in Ladakh. The exact period during which it fell into ruin is unclear.
Nyarma Gompa is located approximately 1 km northeast of the highway. At the entrance, a blue signboard reads, “LINK ROAD TO NYARMA GOMPA.” Following the trail from the highway, one encounters old chortens, creating a distinctly Guge-style atmosphere.
Currently, the only functioning structure is the reconstructed Dorje Chenmo Lhakhang, while the rest consists of ruins and chortens. The monastery’s layout is similar to that of Tholing Monastery and Tabo Monastery.
Dorje Chenmo Lhakhang
A newly reconstructed chapel maintained by the villagers, who tend to it morning and evening. The monastery belongs to the Thiksey-affiliated Gelugpa sect, with monks from Thiksey occasionally visiting. Dorje Chenmo is the protective goddess of Nyarma (also the guardian deity of Tholing in Guge and Shey in Ladakh).
Ruins of the Lhakhangs
Four ruined shrines remain, consisting only of mud walls. There is virtually nothing inside, and not even fragments of murals can be found, indicating the ruins have been abandoned for a very long time.
Chorten Clusters Between Nyarma and Thiksey
Extending northwest from Nyarma for 1.5 km is a long row of chortens. The origins of this cluster are unclear, but it is possible that it once housed a branch monastery of Nyarma.
- The cluster includes a row of 108 chortens, pedestal-mounted chortens, and descending-style chortens.
- Approximately 40 structures remain in total.
- Some remarkable features include the three-tiered chorten and the two-tiered chorten, both of which still have remnants of murals inside.
The murals follow the Guge style, similar to those found in Tabo Monastery and Tsuglagkhang. These chortens may have been built during Nyarma Monastery’s founding in 996 CE. However, the murals are severely damaged, with the faces of the Buddha figures gouged out.
