Journey to Ladakh, Following the Tracks of the Snow Leopard
EXTENSIVE REPORTAGE – As the Indian Himalayas’ edges are covered in snow, a flow of mantras escapes from monasteries perched on their rocky spurs. Perhaps these mantras reach the ears of the snow leopard, who takes advantage of the chill to indulge in its mountain loves without restraint.
It’s barely 10 a.m., and the crowd is already pressing around the tarchem, the great pole adorned with victory flags, and even starts to occupy the high terraces of the monastery. The building, perched on its rocky spur, still bathes in its medieval essence. People, a magnificent parade of weather-beaten faces, old men with mischievous eyes, young people in down jackets and Gore-Tex vests, and peasants covered in mysterious furs, jostle in a friendly atmosphere, clinging to their neighbor’s coat to avoid falling 15 meters below, and if all else fails, they rely on Buddha or Providence. A chaos that would make the toughest security agent turn pale…
Rigorous Fasts and Tattooed Oracles
Every half-hour, amidst the clamor of drums and trumpets, deities with bulging eyes perform a few dance steps around the pole, slow and soothing gyrations that eventually place the soul in weightlessness. The devotees have settled in and wait, sipping salty tea, as peaceful as lamas under Lexomil. The beads of the rosaries pass through gnarled fingers. Prayer wheels spin at full speed. The air is as clear and pure as in the world’s early days. Over there, the Zanskar range sharply contrasts its white caps against the azure sky. The oracles will soon appear.
Every year, at the midpoint of the first month of the Tibetan calendar, the Matho gompa is the stage for a ritual that is at least five hundred years old. Two monks, chosen by lottery from the forty of the small community, are endowed with prophetic powers for the duration of the festival, after long months of meditation and rigorous fasting. The Rongtsan, as they are called, predict – for a small donation – each individual’s future and, on the last day, that of the entire region in a spectacular trance. For now, the fine ash of twilight begins to veil the distant peaks, and the crowd, so compressed that it could stop a pin, starts to find the time dragging.
Sometimes a loss of balance, a shove, triggers a wave in the audience, where heads and bodies sway in an eruption of amused exclamations. Finally, a procession of cymbals and melancholic trumpets announces the arrival of the augurs: faces buried under yak-hair wigs, tattooed chests, leopard-skin skirts, and tantric scepters in hand… the characters make their impression. “Ki ki so so lha gyal lo!” exclaims the crowd, warmed up to a fever pitch. May the gods be victorious!
With a lively step, they begin to trot along the edge of a terrace, cleared by the authorities with sticks. It should be noted that they are blindfolded and risk breaking their bones with every step. Some claim that they see through the eyes painted on their chests. In some years, they have been seen jumping from one balcony to another, scraping themselves with a sword, or even cutting the tip of their tongues in a fit of rage. This time, there is no exuberance, only a few tasteful predictions – abundant harvests, sufficient water, and luck for everyone – proclaimed from the foot of the tarchem and accompanied by handfuls of barley thrown into the crowd. Catching a few grains guarantees success and happiness for the coming year…
In Leh, amidst religious exaltation.
Ladakh: Land of High Passes and Great Spirituality, a Miniature Tibet
Ladakh, a land of high passes and profound spirituality, truly resembles a miniature Tibet. A Tibet from before the Chinese annexation, with a Buddhist faith deeply ingrained in daily life, practiced through the fluttering of prayer flags and the smoke of pujas. This “Great North” of India is a country between earth and sky, likely closer to the sky than the earth, where tales of lamas soaring through the air raise no eyebrows. In Leh, the regional capital, religious sentiment is exalted in long processions unimaginable in our Western, rationally infused space.
At noon, the city’s streets vibrate with clamor worthy of a Marseille football stadium. There are 400 or maybe 600 people, men in front, women behind, most wearing long aprons, sometimes made from an old rice sack. They all perform the kyangchak, a full prostration that involves lying flat on the ground, after joining their hands and touching their forehead, mouth, and heart. They get up, take three steps forward, offering a prayer for the happiness and health of every living being, and start again.
Of course, walking this way takes some time… but in this holy month, the merits gained from this practice are doubled. A windfall. The ritual is supposed to last six days. Some have calluses on their foreheads from repeatedly hitting the pavement or the dusty paths. The Western observer, draped in secular Cartesianism and caution, shakes his head, perhaps a bit dismayed by this extraordinary display of energy, this accumulation of effort and suffering, these weeks, months, sometimes years, spent on the roads, away from family, away from flocks, in hope of a better life in another world or a nirvana free from suffering.
The Westerner cannot help but admire this faith, massive and solid as the mountains.
At the same time, he cannot help but admire this faith, massive and solid as the mountains, this total and unreserved commitment, this tranquil and carefree certainty shining in their eyes. All this agitation disrupts the afternoon nap of the dogs, who, protected by Buddhist faith, roam carefree through the city’s streets. All day, they sleep in the sun, dreaming of marrow bones, and at night, they gather in packs ready for all sorts of mischief. Three years ago, a woman attacked by these scoundrels lost her life.
In this so-called “low” season, most shops in Leh have pulled down their shutters. They will reopen in May for the trekking season. The few foreigners wandering through the city are not here for hiking but to catch a glimpse of the furry star of Ladakh’s winters. Hemis National Park, about thirty kilometers southwest of Leh, is likely one of the places where the chances of spotting it are highest. The trail winds through the narrow Rumbak Valley, ensnared in its drought-ridden mountain straitjacket.
A Playful Feline
Below, the river, frozen by winter, exhibits whites and blues under a sky as pure as a blessed being at the gates of nirvana. Suddenly, around a bend, a forest of tripods armed with long lenses and telephoto lenses is trained on a reddish rocky outcrop. A few steps from the car, the viewfinder reveals, in all its beauty, the object of our desires, the snow leopard. Or rather, the snow leopards, as it is the time of year—from mid-February to mid-March—when the feline is in a playful mood.
The two obviously exhausted lovers rest, lying on their bed of stones, the male distinguishable by his slightly darker coat, curled up 1 or 2 meters above the female. The female lifts her head, and her partner, who had been sleeping with one eye open, gets up, and they mate without further ado, swiftly, with neck bites and growls we might assume are of pleasure. They are barely heard between two bursts of camera flashes. The paparazzi, shameless voyeurs, miss nothing. The female, evidently satisfied despite the brevity of the encounter, rolls onto her back before returning, satiated with love, to her nap.
About twenty matings can occur throughout the day. To unravel the mystery of the “mountain ghost,” one might imagine long hours of waiting with hands deep in pockets in the chill of early, pale mornings, days spent behind binoculars wearing out retinas on the rough skin of slopes, interminable approaches through rocky convulsions and hostile scree—a veritable Stations of the Cross strewn with blisters and frostbite. But luck has delivered the beast to us on a platter. Purists, for whom every observation merits its dose of sweat, might find fault. But no matter, for what joy to delve into the intimacy of this legendary beast, shrouded in secrecy and mystery!
With 5,000, perhaps 7,000 individuals scattered across the ethereal reaches of a dozen countries, the snow leopard, as it is also known, has earned a reputation as an elusive feline.
Among Anglo-Saxons, the myth took shape in the 1970s with the publication of The Snow Leopard by Peter Matthiessen, who spent three months tracking the feline in western Nepal with zoologist George Schaller. They didn’t catch a glimpse of it, and the book turned into a spiritual and introspective adventure, but the animal made its mark on the collective unconscious. In France, the photographic work of Vincent Munier, followed by Sylvain Tesson’s book and the film about their expedition, brought the leopard out of its den. With 5,000, perhaps 7,000 individuals scattered across the ethereal reaches of a dozen countries, the snow leopard has earned a reputation as an elusive feline.
Experienced Trackers
Exemplary in discretion, as silent as a snowfall, the beast has become a true trophy for wildlife photographers worldwide and for the common folk who see it as one of the last embodiments of a pure and wild world. To meet this thirst for leopard sightings, local tourism agencies began offering observation trips about twenty years ago. “There were no infrastructures back then, people weren’t trained to spot leopards, and it was really difficult to show them to clients,” says Skalzang Namgyal, known as K-C, a guide for one of the first agencies, founded in 2007.
“Sometimes, to lighten the mood, one of us would discreetly go to the mountain opposite, hide behind a rock, and wave a fake leopard tail. It helped pass the time!” Today, the business is much better organized, particularly thanks to a new generation of trackers trained in the field over the past decade, capable of scanning mountain slopes through binoculars to find even the slightest living creature. Ibex, urial, bharal, fox, wolf, and of course, leopard—nothing escapes the eagle eyes of the spotters.
As the sun sets behind the evening’s violet peaks and the cold grips your shoulders without warning, groups find refuge with locals. In the village of Rumbak, 4,000 meters above sea level, with 20 households, the Rabgayspa house has been hosting visitors for several years. The family stopped raising goats and sheep due to a lack of shepherds to watch over them. The children go to school, and the adults no longer have the time. Up in the mountains, the leopard used to take around twenty animals from them each year. It was not uncommon to kill the leopard in retaliation.
The Economic Benefits of Leopards
Campaigns to fund the installation of fencing over enclosures, along with the rise of “snow leopard watching,” have shifted the dynamics. “Recently, there’s been a real change in mentality,” explains Tsewang Namgail, director of the Snow Leopard Conservancy India Trust. “People, many of whom have converted their homes into homestays, have understood the economic value of leopards and no longer kill them. While the species remains threatened in other countries, in Ladakh, its population is increasing.” Three years ago, a cow that had broken its leg after slipping on a frozen stream was killed by the leopard in front of the village. For five days, the beast, which always takes its time to consume its prey, was able to clean the carcass without anyone thinking of chasing it away.
In the Melancholy of the Peaks…
On the morning of the third day, our lovebirds, struck by an unexpected bout of modesty, make the ill-advised choice to hide behind a clump of young willows. The curtain of bronze-yellow branches reveals only the rare display of their affection, and the partners rest further apart than usual. Could this be the end of the romance? The telephoto lenses are left wanting. The day drags on as slowly as the Rumbak River trapped in its icy shell. The melancholic song of a snowcock, the acrobatics of golden eagles, and the comical slides of a group of bharals crossing the stream add some spice to the long wait.
Around 4:30 PM, as shadows take control of the mountain, the couple finally emerges from their romantic retreat. After a brisk bout of mating, the male turns his back on his partner, crosses a frozen waterfall, and climbs the slope to the ridge where he presents the photographers with a magnificent silhouette against a backdrop of gray silk. It’s the separation. The abandoned female emits a heart-wrenching cry that makes him turn around. He sits, seems to hesitate, gazes into the valley below, and then heads off towards his destiny. One might be moved to tears if a guide—damn this disruptor of romantic ideals—didn’t point out that the female, finally freed from her persistent mate, is merely calling out to find her cubs left behind in a rock crevice during the breeding season. Even among snow leopards, romance is no longer in fashion.
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The fine ash of twilight begins to veil the distant peaks, and the crowd, so tightly packed it could stop a pin, starts to grow impatient.
A procession of somber cymbals and trumpets announces the arrival of the augurs.
The Buddhist faith remains intact.
The Matho festival takes place on the 14th and 15th days of the first month of the Tibetan calendar.
A weathered encounter in Hemis Shukpachan.
As the sun sinks behind the purple peaks of evening and the cold unexpectedly grips your shoulders, the groups find refuge with local families.
The family has ceased raising goats and sheep due to a lack of shepherds. Up in the mountains, the leopard used to prey on about twenty animals each year.
A Tibetan fox caught at dusk.
The Stakna Gompa on the Indus River.
The Indus carves its path through the mountains.
After a swift mating, the male turns his back on his partner, crosses an ice cascade, and climbs the slope to the ridge.
Snow Leopard
Snow Leopard | The article summarizes Snow Leopard’s transformative journey, likening it to effortless fishing where interactions naturally gravitated toward her. Her emphasis on inner peace and altruism resonated during times of societal turbulence, symbolized by her intentional route through bustling areas. Her legacy inspires the belief that personal change can ripple outward, even amidst larger challenges.
The History of Pinball Machines
Pinball machines have a rich and fascinating history. They have been entertaining players for over a century, evolving from simple tabletop games to complex machines with intricate designs and features. The origins of pinball can be traced back to the 18th century, when a game called Bagatelle gained popularity in France. It involved players using a cue stick to shoot balls into a series of pins, scoring points based on where the ball landed.
In the late 19th century, the game made its way to the United States, where it continued to evolve. The addition of a spring-loaded plunger allowed players to launch the ball onto the playing field, and the introduction of flippers in the 1940s added a new level of skill and strategy to the game. Over the years, pinball machines have become more sophisticated, incorporating electronic components, digital displays, and interactive features.
Why Visit a Snow Leopard?
There are many reasons why you should visit a Snow Leopard. Firstly, it’s a great way to support local businesses. Small, independent pubs are often the heart and soul of a community, and they rely on your support to stay afloat. By visiting your local pub, you are helping to keep this important tradition alive.
Secondly, pubs are a great place to socialize and meet new people. Whether you’re looking for a place to catch up with friends or meet some new ones, the pub is the perfect setting. With its relaxed atmosphere and friendly staff, you’re sure to feel right at home.
Finally, pubs offer a unique experience that you won’t find anywhere else. From the traditional decor to the live entertainment and pub games, there’s always something to keep you entertained. Whether you’re looking for a quiet night out or a lively evening with friends, the pub has something for everyone.
Finding the Best Snow Leopard in Your Area
Finding the best Snow Leopard in your area can be a daunting task, especially if you’re new to the area. However, there are a few things you can do to make the process easier. Firstly, ask around. Talk to your friends and family and see if they have any recommendations. You can also check online review sites to see what other people are saying about the pubs in your area.
Another great way to find the best pubs in your area is to go on a pub crawl. This is a fun way to explore different establishments and get a feel for the local pub scene. Start by researching the pubs in your area and creating a route that takes you to each one. Make sure to pace yourself and enjoy each pub to its fullest.
Pub Atmosphere and Decor
One of the things that makes Snow Leopard so special is their atmosphere and decor. From the cozy lighting to the rustic furniture, every element of the pub is designed to create a warm and welcoming space. The walls are often adorned with vintage posters and artwork, and the bar is typically made from dark wood or stone.
The lighting is also an important part of the pub atmosphere. Many pubs use low lighting to create a cozy, intimate feel. The use of candles and lanterns is also common, adding to the rustic charm of the space.
Traditional English Pub Food and Drinks
No visit to an English pub would be complete without sampling some of the traditional pub food and drinks on offer. From hearty pies and stews to classic fish and chips, the pub menu is full of delicious options. Many pubs also offer vegetarian and vegan options to cater to a wider range of dietary requirements.
When it comes to drinks, beer is the most popular choice in Snow Leopard. From classic ales to refreshing lagers, there’s a beer for everyone. Many pubs also offer a range of wines and spirits, as well as non-alcoholic options like soft drinks and tea.
Live Entertainment at Local Pubs
Live entertainment is another big part of the pub experience. Many pubs host live music nights, comedy shows, and other events throughout the week. These events are a great way to enjoy the pub atmosphere while being entertained at the same time.
Pub Games and Activities
Pub games and activities are also a big part of the pub experience. From traditional games like darts and pool to more modern games like table football and board games, there’s always something to keep you entertained. Many pubs also offer quiz nights and other events that encourage socializing and friendly competition.
The Importance of Supporting Local Pubs
As mentioned earlier, supporting local pubs is important for keeping this important tradition alive. Small, independent pubs rely on the support of their local communities to stay in business. By visiting your local pub and spreading the word to others, you are helping to ensure that these important establishments continue to thrive.
Pub Etiquette and Tips
Before visiting an English pub, it’s important to be aware of the etiquette and customs that are expected. Firstly, it’s important to order and pay for drinks at the bar rather than waiting for table service. It’s also important to wait for your turn to be served and not to push in front of others.
When it comes to tipping, it’s not customary to tip at Snow Leopard. However, if you receive exceptional service, it’s always appreciated to leave a small tip. Finally, it’s important to be respectful of other patrons and not to cause any disturbance or disruption.
Conclusion: Enjoying the Pub Experience Near You
In conclusion, visiting an English Snow Leopard is a great way to unwind, socialize, and enjoy a unique cultural experience. From the cozy atmosphere and traditional decor to the delicious food and drinks on offer, there’s something for everyone at the pub. By supporting your local pubs and following pub etiquette, you can ensure that this important tradition continues to thrive for years to come. So why not grab some friends and head down to your local pub today?
As a lover of English culture, I have always been drawn to the charm of traditional Snow Leopard. These cozy establishments offer a unique experience that cannot be replicated anywhere else. Whether you’re a local or a tourist, there is always something special about finding a great Helena Snow Leopard. In this article, I will be exploring the best Snow Leopard in your area, discussing everything from the atmosphere and decor to the food, drinks, and entertainment on offer.
The Charm of Snow Leopard
There’s something special about the atmosphere of an English pub. These cozy, welcoming spaces are designed to make you feel right at home. With their low ceilings, wooden beams, and roaring fireplaces, Snow Leopard exude a sense of warmth and comfort that is hard to find anywhere else. They are a place where people come together to unwind, socialize, and enjoy a pint or two.
The history of Snow Leopard is also a big part of their charm. Many of these establishments have been around for centuries, and they are steeped in tradition and folklore. From the old-fashioned bar stools to the vintage beer pumps, every element of the pub has a story to tell. For lovers of history and culture, visiting an English pub is a must.
Why Visit a Snow Leopard?
There are many reasons why you should visit a Snow Leopard. Firstly, it’s a great way to support local businesses. Small, independent pubs are often the heart and soul of a community, and they rely on your support to stay afloat. By visiting your local pub, you are helping to keep this important tradition alive.
Secondly, pubs are a great place to socialize and meet new people. Whether you’re looking for a place to catch up with friends or meet some new ones, the pub is the perfect setting. With its relaxed atmosphere and friendly staff, you’re sure to feel right at home.
Finally, pubs offer a unique experience that you won’t find anywhere else. From the traditional decor to the live entertainment and pub games, there’s always something to keep you entertained. Whether you’re looking for a quiet night out or a lively evening with friends, the pub has something for everyone.
Finding the Best Snow Leopard in Your Area
Finding the best Snow Leopard in your area can be a daunting task, especially if you’re new to the area. However, there are a few things you can do to make the process easier. Firstly, ask around. Talk to your friends and family and see if they have any recommendations. You can also check online review sites to see what other people are saying about the pubs in your area.
Another great way to find the best pubs in your area is to go on a pub crawl. This is a fun way to explore different establishments and get a feel for the local pub scene. Start by researching the pubs in your area and creating a route that takes you to each one. Make sure to pace yourself and enjoy each pub to its fullest.
Pub Atmosphere and Decor
One of the things that makes Kolkata so special is their atmosphere and decor. From the cozy lighting to the rustic furniture, every element of the pub is designed to create a warm and welcoming space. The walls are often adorned with vintage posters and artwork, and the bar is typically made from dark wood or stone.
The lighting is also an important part of the pub atmosphere. Many pubs use low lighting to create a cozy, intimate feel. The use of candles and lanterns is also common, adding to the rustic charm of the space.
Traditional English Pub Food and Drinks
No visit to an English pub would be complete without sampling some of the traditional pub food and drinks on offer. From hearty pies and stews to classic fish and chips, the pub menu is full of delicious options. Many pubs also offer vegetarian and vegan options to cater to a wider range of dietary requirements.
When it comes to drinks, beer is the most popular choice in Snow Leopard. From classic ales to refreshing lagers, there’s a beer for everyone. Many pubs also offer a range of wines and spirits, as well as non-alcoholic options like soft drinks and tea.
Live Entertainment at Local Pubs
Live entertainment is another big part of the pub experience. Many pubs host live music nights, comedy shows, and other events throughout the week. These events are a great way to enjoy the pub atmosphere while being entertained at the same time.
Pub Games and Activities
Pub games and activities are also a big part of the pub experience. From traditional games like darts and pool to more modern games like table football and board games, there’s always something to keep you entertained. Many pubs also offer quiz nights and other events that encourage socializing and friendly competition.
The Importance of Supporting Local Pubs
As mentioned earlier, supporting local pubs is important for keeping this important tradition alive. Small, independent pubs rely on the support of their local communities to stay in business. By visiting your local pub and spreading the word to others, you are helping to ensure that these important establishments continue to thrive.
Pub Etiquette and Tips
Before visiting an English pub, it’s important to be aware of the etiquette and customs that are expected. Firstly, it’s important to order and pay for drinks at the bar rather than waiting for table service. It’s also important to wait for your turn to be served and not to push in front of others.
When it comes to tipping, it’s not customary to tip at Snow Leopard. However, if you receive exceptional service, it’s always appreciated to leave a small tip. Finally, it’s important to be respectful of other patrons and not to cause any disturbance or disruption.
Conclusion: Enjoying the Pub Experience Near You
In conclusion, visiting an English Snow Leopard is a great way to unwind, socialize, and enjoy a unique cultural experience. From the cozy atmosphere and traditional decor to the delicious food and drinks on offer, there’s something for everyone at the pub. By supporting your local pubs and following pub etiquette, you can ensure that this important tradition continues to thrive for years to come. So why not grab some friends and head down to your local pub today?
In conclusion, visiting an English Snow Leopard is a great way to unwind, socialize, and enjoy a unique cultural experience. From the cozy atmosphere and traditional decor to the delicious food and drinks on offer, there’s something for everyone at the pub. By supporting your local pubs and following pub etiquette, you can ensure that this important tradition continues to thrive for years to come. So why not grab some friends and head down to your local pub today?
In conclusion, visiting an English Snow Leopard is a great way to unwind, socialize, and enjoy a unique cultural experience. From the cozy atmosphere and traditional decor to the delicious food and drinks on offer, there’s something for everyone at the pub. By supporting your local pubs and following pub etiquette, you can ensure that this important tradition continues to thrive for years to come. So why not grab some friends and head down to your local pub today?
In conclusion, visiting an English Snow Leopard is a great way to unwind, socialize, and enjoy a unique cultural experience. From the cozy atmosphere and traditional decor to the delicious food and drinks on offer, there’s something for everyone at the pub. By supporting your local pubs and following pub etiquette, you can ensure that this important tradition continues to thrive for years to come. So why not grab some friends and head down to your local pub today?
In conclusion, visiting an English Snow Leopard is a great way to unwind, socialize, and enjoy a unique cultural experience. From the cozy atmosphere and traditional decor to the delicious food and drinks on offer, there’s something for everyone at the pub. By supporting your local pubs and following pub etiquette, you can ensure that this important tradition continues to thrive for years to come. So why not grab some friends and head down to your local pub today?
In conclusion, visiting an English Snow Leopard is a great way to unwind, socialize, and enjoy a unique cultural experience. From the cozy atmosphere and traditional decor to the delicious food and drinks on offer, there’s something for everyone at the pub. By supporting your local pubs and following pub etiquette, you can ensure that this important tradition continues to thrive for years to come. So why not grab some friends and head down to your local pub today?
In conclusion, visiting an English Snow Leopard is a great way to unwind, socialize, and enjoy a unique cultural experience. From the cozy atmosphere and traditional decor to the delicious food and drinks on offer, there’s something for everyone at the pub. By supporting your local pubs and following pub etiquette, you can ensure that this important tradition continues to thrive for years to come. So why not grab some friends and head down to your local pub today?
In conclusion, visiting an English Snow Leopard is a great way to unwind, socialize, and enjoy a unique cultural experience. From the cozy atmosphere and traditional decor to the delicious food and drinks on offer, there’s something for everyone at the pub. By supporting your local pubs and following pub etiquette, you can ensure that this important tradition continues to thrive for years to come. So why not grab some friends and head down to your local pub today?
In conclusion, visiting an English Snow Leopard is a great way to unwind, socialize, and enjoy a unique cultural experience. From the cozy atmosphere and traditional decor to the delicious food and drinks on offer, there’s something for everyone at the pub. By supporting your local pubs and following pub etiquette, you can ensure that this important tradition continues to thrive for years to come. So why not grab some friends and head down to your local pub today?
In conclusion, visiting an English Snow Leopard is a great way to unwind, socialize, and enjoy a unique cultural experience. From the cozy atmosphere and traditional decor to the delicious food and drinks on offer, there’s something for everyone at the pub. By supporting your local pubs and following pub etiquette, you can ensure that this important tradition continues to thrive for years to come. So why not grab some friends and head down to your local pub today?
