Pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela
The Beginning of the Pilgrimage
Jim arrives at the Gare de Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in Paris – April 25, 2016
Excited pilgrims, though on the verge of getting lost, embark on their journey
The First Signpost of the Pilgrimage
Departure from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port
The Castle Walls
Walking within the walls
Gateway to the journey
Gate of the Clock Tower
Pilgrim’s Passport
Pilgrim’s Passport – Note the option to walk
Location of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in France
Stamping the passport
Day 1 (April 27, 2016)
The path from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port is challenging. It ascends about 800 meters in 7 kilometers. The path is quiet, with only the sound of my trekking poles, occasional bird songs, and sometimes the bells of cows audible. Yet, besides that, I am alone with my thoughts. There is no one ahead of me, but like all before, I knew this is a trial, perhaps the most arduous part. However, knowing I only have to walk 8 kilometers today brought some relief.
For the first 5 kilometers, I saw no one, but as I approached the first rest stop, Orisson, I began to encounter other travelers.
The typical pilgrim “refuge” or albergue offers communal sleeping quarters. My room is a comfortable lower bunk shared with seven other men and women, with one bathroom and two showers shared. Screens are placed for privacy when changing clothes in the shared space – finding privacy as much as possible. Dinner was also communal, shared with people from Australia, Germany, New Zealand, Mexico, the USA, Uruguay, England, Scotland, Spain, Canada, and France.
Meeting two women from Vancouver Island was not surprising, but what are the odds of meeting someone living two houses down from my brother in Iqaluit, Nunavut?
It truly is a very small world.
Jim Morris
Signpost to the entrance of Spain
The road
Communal meals
Scenery along the way
Orisson refuge – albergue
The path traveled
View from Google Earth of the path so far – 5 kilometers from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port on the first day, Refuge Orisson up from bottom right to upper left
Day 2
Pilgrims depart from Orisson refuge
Day 2
Sleeping in communal dormitories is challenging. One can sleep. It’s not uncomfortable but not comfortable either.
I dozed until 5 a.m. Breakfast was until 7 a.m., so I pretended to sleep. Breakfast consisted of a bowl of coffee with warm milk if desired, fresh orange juice, and toast. After breakfast, it’s time to pack up and depart.
I left Orisson just before 8 a.m. It was cold, but otherwise, it was wonderful. I knew it would be a strenuous journey. Yesterday was 8 kilometers uphill at 700 meters. Today, it’s about 600 meters uphill in 12 kilometers, then downhill about 500 meters in 3 kilometers. I didn’t think beyond what was in front of me. Passing through Col de Lepoeder at 1450 meters, I descended into Spain.
I traveled nearly 19 kilometers mostly in solitude.
Jim Morris
Day 3
Every farm has its own church – near Burguete, Spain
Near Burguete, Spain
Day 3 – Terrain of the path from Google Earth
Pulsating purple feet
Days 4 and 5 are rest days
Early morning journey
Bridge of Arts
Walls of Pamplona
From the 12th to the 17th century, San Esteban
Trail to Trinidad de Arre
Lunch break
Day 6
What I’m learning is… the Camino (pilgrimage) is a part of humanity. You meet wonderfully special people. Each has a story to share. You encounter beautifully special places. Each has a story to share.
My mind is focused on each step, attentive to the terrain. Yet, when I look up, all I see is beauty.
I am grateful for my life. I am grateful for this moment. This is the lesson I’m learning. Mindfulness of the moment. Savoring the moment. Appreciating the moment.
16th-century ruins of the Guendulain Palace, Church, Pilgrims’ Hospital.
And just as the rain suddenly began, the sun suddenly appeared.
And the path continues towards Puente la Reina.
Found shelter, food, and WiFi in Sarriguren. Once, a pilgrim here was tempted by the devil to renounce God. Saint James himself appeared, causing a spring to emerge. It’s dry now. Must watch out for the devil.
Scenery along the way
Old and new – windmills and artistic depictions of pilgrims
Ascending the path
Treasures of the Camino – Church of the Knights Templar
Do you see the beautiful cobblestone path?
Walking barefoot three times silently – a bit painful
Day 8
155 kilometers in 8 days. Nearly a half marathon every day.
Tomorrow, I’ll make up for it. It’ll be a 30-kilometer day.
The Original Roman Road – Dating Back 2000 Years
Offering snacks to pilgrims
The path narrows
Pointing the way with shoes
Near Viana, Spain
Day 10
It’s almost 7 a.m. I’m wearing boots. Today is 21 kilometers to Santo Domingo de la Calzada. If I feel up to it, I might go to Grañón, about 6 kilometers.
Morning
Medieval knights resting
The path continues
And there’s some really cool street art.
Day 11
The road is still long
Leaving the town of Grañón this morning
Day 12
Yes, it’s all about me… and I have to work on that a bit more. Today is 38 kilometers, mostly rural paths. The last 8 kilometers are urban paths. I’m in Burgos. The hometown of El Cid, a Spanish military leader.
Leaving the hostel at 8 a.m.
The elevation gain in the first 5 kilometers was intense.
But the scenery was unbelievable. Burgos, 20 kilometers away, is visible.
It’s a challenging path to walk – the path of sinful people.
Famous residence of Cervantes – author of “Don Quixote” – Spain, Burgos
Day 15
Burgos, the Gothic capital of Spain, is an architectural gem. Until 1938, it was the seat of Franco’s government. It was also the birthplace of Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar (El Cid).
Starting in the first light – near Hontanas, Spain, May 10
San Martín de Fromista
Why is there a descent after an ascent?
Locks of the canal in Fromista
Near Iglesias, Spain, on May 10
Everything was muddy – 5 pounds of mud on the boots
May 11, 7:24 p.m., Fromista, Spain
After walking 17 kilometers on completely straight flat road and green fields, I arrived in Carrion de los Condes after crossing a hill – a 37-kilometer journey.
Pilgrims await at the medieval inn of Mesón Villa Cazalr
The tomb of Don Felipe and his wife Doña Leonor.