In the bygone era when India was still a colony of the British Empire, Srinagar resounded with the names of British aristocrats seeking respite, and even today, among the Kashmiris, it is often referred to as the paradise within India. Even after India gained independence from Britain in 1947, until the 1980s, tourists from various countries frequented this summer retreat, earning it the title of “Switzerland of the East.” However, as the separatist movement in Kashmir intensified in the 1990s, accompanied by incursions from pro-independence factions from Pakistan, the security situation in Srinagar deteriorated. Consequently, the influx of foreign tourists naturally dwindled.
This state of affairs persisted until the early 2000s, exacerbated by conflicts between India and Pakistan. The economy of Srinagar, which had relied heavily on tourism, took a significant downturn. This led to a resurgence of interest in Kashmir’s traditional culture, prompting a reevaluation of Kashmiri products such as Cashmere, Pashmina, saffron, Kashmiri carpets, furniture, and other handicrafts. By the 2010s, tourists gradually began returning, and local industries started to revive, although the economy had yet to reach the heights of the golden period of the 1980s. However, in recent years, while sporadic strikes still occur in Srinagar, they have not escalated into large-scale riots, indicating a certain level of stability in the security situation.
The charm of the houseboats floating on Dal Lake also reflects the traditional culture of Srinagar. In recent years, these houseboats have been utilized as guesthouses, but in the past, they served as the genuine dwellings of the water-dwelling communities. Resembling enlarged versions of Japan’s yakatabune, these houseboats feature wooden living quarters covering their decks, partitioned into multiple rooms including kitchens, living rooms, bedrooms, and bathrooms, providing all the necessary amenities. Most houseboats are stationary, unable to move from their locations, with electricity supplied through external wiring. While houseboats on Dal Lake are renowned, those on the Jhelum River flowing from Dal Lake also offer a captivating experience and are often more affordable.
One notable aspect of Srinagar is the beauty of its old cityscape. During the British colonial era, this cityscape was already established, with medieval British buildings densely filling the streets, creating a spectacular sight. While Sri Lanka’s town of Galle is famous for its colonial-era streets, Srinagar surpasses it in both scale and beauty. The scale is perhaps hundreds of times larger than Galle, and while Galle boasts restored colonial buildings neatly lined up, Srinagar retains thousands or even tens of thousands of buildings from the British colonial era in their original, unrepaired state. The maze-like streets add to its allure, reminiscent of the ancient city of Damascus, known for its labyrinthine layout. However, Srinagar’s scale and maze surpass even Damascus, with its labyrinthine structure reaching astronomical proportions. The entire maze is lined with colonial buildings, a fact that continues to astonish. A few years ago, the film “Les Misérables” was released, featuring intricately recreated medieval streets throughout, including numerous tilted buildings. This is reminiscent of Srinagar, where many tilted buildings from the colonial era remain, inhabited by locals. These old buildings feature pillars of aged wood, walls constructed with antique bricks, and floors divided by old wooden partitions, most of which are already slanted, reflecting the buildings’ overall tilt. Such charming colonial structures intertwined in a maze-like cityscape define Srinagar.
While Dal Lake often dominates discussions, the Jhelum River flowing from it and the numerous other rivers crisscrossing the region emphasize Srinagar’s identity as a water city. Although I’ve yet to witness it personally, during the seasons of grand water markets, small boats adorned with flowers or seasonal vegetables reportedly fill the waterways. Beyond the labyrinthine streets of the back alleys, these waterfront areas are incredibly beautiful, with old wooden bridges spanning the rivers and ancient mosques dotting the landscape. The riverside is lined with old houses, particularly enchanting during the quiet moments of early mornings or dusk.
As you wander through the back alleys and riverside of Srinagar, children lean out of windows, intrigued by the unfamiliar traveler. Though you struggle to communicate in the local language, their curiosity about your destination is palpable. Gesturing in response, you realize that this is part of the essence of travel, where language barriers fade into the background, marking the beginning of understanding through shared experiences. Along the riverside promenade, you catch glimpses of figures peering from small windows of old houses, their eyes vividly blue, partially concealed by scarves, their hair tinted chestnut, evoking an exotic aura…
Time beckons me to depart. It’s up to you whether to linger in Srinagar or join me on the next journey. Well then…
