Blogs

I recently found myself standing on the highest plateau in the world, a place where life shouldn’t exist, yet it does. The Changthang Plateau, an expanse of ice and rock suspended over 14,000 feet above sea level, is where I spent two weeks, my camera in hand, trying to capture the essence of a crisis that few will ever see firsthand. The plateau, tucked between the towering Himalayan and Karakorum ranges, is home to the Changra goat, an animal as rare as the landscape itself. These goats, with their resilient spirits, endure freezing temperatures and relentless winds to grow an undercoat so delicate it defies logic. The fibers, a mere […]

In remote Southeast Ladakh, explore Ladakh trekking routes that reveal breathtaking landscapes and hidden gems. R. Bhattacharji Published Year: 1985 In the far reaches of southeast Ladakh, we skirted the edge of the curfew that had fallen on Punjab on June 3rd. By sheer luck and the confusion of its enforcement, our Kalka Mail arrived at its destination without incident. From Kalka, we boarded an open truck for a grueling 476-kilometer journey, spanning four days, to Kibar, the highest inhabited village in India, perched at 14,460 feet. Kibar became our base for two days. We acclimated, practiced our ice skills, and, most importantly, found a guide. Tshering, a man of […]

Flying Blind, Take 2: Navigating Ladakh Tourism Amidst Altitude Challenges Here I sit, my head throbbing as though it were caught in a vise, a souvenir of altitude sickness. Despite the discomfort, I can’t help but feel a strange sense of gratitude. We are fortunate to even be here. Our departure from Delhi was flawless, but the ascent turned into a journey through a swirling abyss of clouds. We found ourselves trapped in a Himalayan valley, our plane circling endlessly, unable to find a break in the cloud cover. We eventually turned back, retrieved our baggage, and made our way to a nearby hotel, promising ourselves a fresh attempt in […]

Traveling Ladakh, the chill of the morning air clings to the peaks as two monks, draped in their traditional robes, lift their horns to the heavens, the deep, resonant notes of the dung dkar echoing through the quiet expanse of Thikse monastery. The town of Leh, nestled in the Ladakh region of northern India, is more than just a destination; it’s a memory etched into the very soul of those who visit. Leh is a place where time moves differently, where the past is as vivid as the present. I wandered into a small shop, its walls adorned with vibrant prints and the faint scent of ink lingering in the […]

Dialogue with Helena Norberg-Hodge, Part II For over three decades, Helena Norberg-Hodge has been a champion of the profound value that local economies bring to individuals, communities, and the environment. As an author, filmmaker, and the visionary behind the International Society for Ecology and Culture, her work has largely centered around Ladakh—a region in India that has managed to preserve much of its cultural and economic identity despite the relentless forces of globalization. On a crisp October day, Norberg-Hodge joined Richard Heinberg and the team at Orion for a live discussion on the inevitable decline of economic growth. In a conversation that took place against the backdrop of her latest […]

A Dialogue with Helena Norberg-Hodge, Segment I For over three decades, Helena Norberg-Hodge has been a staunch advocate for the virtues of local economies, emphasizing their personal, societal, and environmental benefits. As an author, filmmaker, and the founder of the International Society for Ecology and Culture (ISEC), her efforts have largely centered around Ladakh, a region in India where traditional economic and cultural practices have withstood the onslaught of globalization. On October 18, Norberg-Hodge joined author Richard Heinberg and Orion staff for an insightful web discussion about the decline of economic growth. I had the privilege of speaking with Norberg-Hodge about her latest film, “The Economics of Happiness,” and the […]

Ladakh Motorcycle Journey: Discovering the Enigmatic Charm on Two Wheels Nestled between China, Tibet, and Pakistan at India’s northern edge, Ladakh presents a unique blend of cultures, sparsely populated terrains, and the world’s highest road. In 2017, Belgian photographer Yuri Andries embarked on a journey through Ladakh, spending five weeks traversing its landscapes and mingling with its people. Without a fixed itinerary, he navigated the region on a motorcycle, capturing the stark contrasts that define Ladakh: temperatures fluctuating from 86 degrees in the day to 20 degrees at night, apricot blossoms against barren gray hills, and warm-hearted locals illuminating the isolated roads. For Andries, Ladakh was an escape from the […]

Himalayan Reveries: A Journey Through Myth and Reality In a timeless dialogue, the Earth inquired of Vishnu, “Why do you embody mountains instead of manifesting in your divine form?” Vishnu, with serene wisdom, answered, “The joy found in mountains surpasses that of living beings; they neither feel heat nor cold, pain nor anger, fear nor pleasure. We three gods, as mountains, shall dwell on Earth for the welfare of mankind.” The summer of 1995 marked my inaugural venture into the Himalayas. Upon arriving in India, I was greeted by the lingering monsoon rains. Delhi, a quarter-century ago, often succumbed to floods; its streets transformed into murky waterways. The rain followed […]

Exploring the Muslim Community in Ladakh: Medina Tenour Whiteman’s Unexpected Journey The summer following my return from a year of linguistic immersion, the travel bug had sunk its teeth deep into my skin. With a modest surplus from my student loan, I felt a compelling urge to extend my journey. It had become an obsession; my previous travels seemed insufficient, a mere prelude rather than the transformative experience I craved. A few French and Belgian friends were gearing up for a trek in Ladakh, a region that, while politically part of India, is culturally and ethnically Tibetan. The prospect intrigued me not for the hiking but for the opportunity to […]

The Paradox of Progress: A Call for a Reimagined Economy In the shadowed valleys of the Indian Himalayas, where the winds whisper tales of ancient wisdom, Helena Norberg-Hodge found herself ensnared by a paradox of modernity. The year was 1975, and a vision of pristine Ladakh—a land untouched and serene—beckoned her. It was a vision of stark contrasts, where the creeping tendrils of Western influence began to suffocate the vibrant essence of a timeless culture. Norberg-Hodge, an intrepid seeker of truth, was initially drawn to Ladakh as part of an anthropological expedition. Enraptured by the region’s profound simplicity and harmonious existence, she chose to entwine her life with its rhythms. […]