In the island of Kyushu, life breathes within the ancient caldera. The green hills turn grey, and a faint smell of sulfur wafts in. You can sense it approaching. However, encountering an active volcano, especially one of the world’s largest that regularly spouts minor eruptions, is an unexpected shock. I don’t know if the dome-shaped bunkers, speakers, 24-hour surveillance, and strict access regulations are reassuring or unsettling. Perhaps both. Peering through the fence, I can’t see the red boiling cauldron like in a movie, but steam ominously billows out. Our usually chatty group is silent this time, and no one protests when it’s time to leave. We don’t want to test the gods any further. I later appreciated that our guide started the cycling journey after offering prayers at the shrine at the foot of the volcano. We descend on electric bicycles.
Cyclists explore grasslands, rice paddies, and farmlands within the Aso Caldera. (Photo: Norie Quintos)
Yet, in Kyushu, at the southern tip of Japan’s four main islands, true escapism is impossible. Kyushu boasts nine active volcanic systems, two of which are considered the most active globally. In the island’s center lies Mount Aso, Japan’s largest, with a caldera formed by a massive eruption 90,000 years ago, spanning 16×25 kilometers. What’s intriguing is that around 50,000 people live in these ancient towns, villages, and farms. Inside the caldera are Aso City, along with Takamori Town and Minamiaso Village. It’s rare to find such a large community within a caldera. The Aso volcano has shaped the landscape and lifestyle of this region both within and outside the caldera. I explore how people coexist with one of nature’s most powerful forces in Miyazaki and Kumamoto Prefectures, mainly on foot and by bicycle.
In the fragrant mountain ridges of Miyazaki, 80-year-old Kazuichi Akimoto guides us through ancient paths and horse trails. We stay at his hotel, Forest Pia, where his deep knowledge of the area surprises us. He reads branches, footprints, shadows, and spores as if updating a status. He explains how forests have always provided what people need. Pine trees for torches that light up even in the rain, using their resin. Leaves of wild magnolia for wrapping miso or deer meat before grilling. He first amuses us, then points out mushrooms that would send one rushing to the nearest restroom. He elaborately explains what happens when the balance is disrupted by climate change or other human activities. In this island that cherishes myths and traditions, it’s believed that nature and humans should remain separate. For millennia, both have evolved in intricate harmony, like the 33-part ancient Shinto ritual dance called Kagura. It’s no wonder this region houses six UNESCO World Heritage sites, two of which are Global Geoparks.
A local shrine in Takachiho, Kyushu. Cedar trees and statues of deities line the path. (Photo: Norie Quintos)
On the steepest part of the trail, a lively elder joins us and sings a song that has encouraged travelers for centuries. It speaks of a man listening to bird songs for his grandson, caring for horses, and continuing along ridges. We press on, rewarded with views akin to Sesshu’s ink wash paintings. Patchwork valleys, distant shimmering peaks of Mount Aso.
Alongside tales of destruction, volcanoes have brought rich, dark soils to this region. From Aso City, we cycle through farmlands and thousand-year-old grasslands. They earned the name “thousand-year grasslands” due to references in tenth-century texts. People have shaped and interacted with this land for about 30,000 years. We visit a family farm in Nankoku Village, Gonbe, renowned for spinach. Over a homemade lunch, we bond with the Sato family and the energetic owners of Aso Kusumi Cycle, Ryoichi Hashimoto and his son, Ko. Later, we meet a third-generation mushroom farmer who insists on cultivating shiitake on oak logs instead of artificial blocks. It’s a labor-intensive process, while most shiitake today are efficiently and anonymously mass-produced on artificial blocks. Yet, tasting this handmade shiitake, you’ll appreciate people like Ryoichi who breathe new life into old traditions.
Ryoichi Hashimoto, the third-generation shiitake farmer. He learned the traditional method of cultivating shiitake on oak logs from his father. (Photo: Norie Quintos)
Another reason to be thankful is the abundance of oak trees in these forests. If left unmanaged, they become overcrowded, weakened, and susceptible to damage during storms. However, thinning and pruning lead to vigorous new growth and a cycle of renewal. It’s another example of nature and humans harmonizing to work. Unfortunately, there are hardly ten families left in this region who cultivate mushrooms traditionally. As we enjoy the sizzling mushrooms around the grill, Ryoichi points out specific muscle groups developed only by mushroom farmers, while his young son proudly examines them.
Our farewell breakfast takes place in the outdoor waiting area of an old unmanned station within the caldera. Asahi Station, closed since the 2016 earthquake, has recently seen trains pass again. Kume Nagisa appears wearing a hat shaped like an octopus and a black T-shirt printed with “No chiffon, no life.” She serves plates of cake topped with whipped cream and berries. She used to work for a major corporation but started a café in the station building for a change. “I just want to be happy and make others happy,” she says. She creates fluffy pastries, dons quirky hats, and brings smiles to passengers every time a train passes.
Kume Nagisa runs a café at the Whistle Stop Station in Kumamoto Prefecture. (Photo: Norie Quintos)
Kume shows us an art poster commemorating the reopening of the Nan’asu Railway, designed by our guide. During these five days, we’ve met Max Wall, a 34-year-old from Sweden who moved here, learned Japanese, and is raising a family on the island. We didn’t know about his talent for art until now, born from his interest in Japanese anime and manga. It’s a glimpse into the bright future etched on this volcano-ridden island. The younger generation embraces Japan’s ancient culture’s heart while evolving it simultaneously.
Living within a caldera involves nurturing life and making a living, all while coexisting with the power to erase everything in an instant, held by the volcano. From what I’ve seen, people here live with resilience, love, and always, with joy.
Discover your adventure in Japan
Norie Quintos writes about sustainable and responsible travel. Check out her website (Norie Quintos) and follow her on Instagram @noriecicerone. The writers who contributed to this Destination series were invited to adventures across Japan as part of the Adventure Travel World Summit 2023 held in Hokkaido.
