Peter Matthiessen’s “Snow Leopard,” a renowned book on spiritual exploration in the Buddhist monasteries of the Himalayas, has reached its 40th anniversary since publication. His son, Alex, retraced that trek.
Can one become an armchair Zen monk? It’s one of the questions posed by Peter Matthiessen’s great exploration, “Snow Leopard.” Among all the books I’ve read in my lifetime, especially in recent years, none has vividly captured Matthiessen’s acclaimed trekking journey, the “journey of the heart” to the ancient Tibetan plateau of Dolpo in the high Himalayas. Many believe this. Since its first edition in 1978, “Snow Leopard” has arguably inspired the paths of hippies and backpackers venturing beyond Kathmandu (continuing to top Amazon’s “Himalaya” charts). Though I’ve revisited the book several times, I have yet to visit the places he described. But returning to the beautifully new Folio Society edition commemorating the 40th anniversary of its initial publication, I find myself breathing deeper and feeling a clearer, more inviting view.
In autumn 1973, Matthiessen embarked on this journey at the invitation of the renowned wildlife biologist George Schaller (publishing for the first time photos of the people and places of that route). Schaller’s purpose was to study the breeding habits of the blue sheep, the bharal, in the Himalayas, aiming to prove Schaller’s hypothesis that they were ancestors of all sheep and goats. However, Matthiessen, the only writer to win the National Book Award for both fiction and non-fiction, was drawn to this expedition for other reasons.
One was the semi-mystical possibility of seeing the snow leopard, the natural predator of the bharal, an animal rarely seen by most Westerners. There was also the opportunity to live among the thick-skinned mountain people of Dolpo, living a “pure” Tibetan culture shielded from external influences (Matthiessen, born into the privileged wasp-like atmosphere of the East Coast, had spent half his life seeking remote indigenous peoples and landscapes untouched by human hands). But more than that, the journey to the Himalayas coincided with moments in his life seeking clarity of mind, and perhaps solace.
In the prologue, written from his travel notes, Matthiessen recounts that 20 months earlier, his second wife and mother of two of his four children, Deborah Love, had died suddenly at 44 from rapidly spreading cancer. Their marriage had been tumultuous, sometimes strained, yet in the days leading up to her diagnosis, they had agreed to divorce, remaining bound until the end (“I resented her kindness,” Matthiessen admits in the book, reflecting on their early trials, “and acted badly… but there was love, half understood, never fully over”).
In the 1960s, living with Amazon tribes in Brazil and taking their “spiritual medicine” Ayahuasca, Matthiessen introduced Love to LSD and other hallucinogens. She also taught him the basics of Zen Buddhism, which became a major focus of his life’s research over the next 40 years (eventually becoming a Zen monk and founding a Zen Buddhist monastery in Sagaponack, Long Island, New York). He tested the framework of his thoughts on the pages of “Snow Leopard,” walking through landscapes where even the Buddha had walked.
Matthiessen’s book has a timeless appeal. Its beautifully detailed and profoundly human descriptions allow one to read the treacherous, sometimes dangerous climb to the “Crystal Mountain,” a sacred site of Tibetan Buddhism, as if following the footsteps of medieval pilgrims. Yet his progress inevitably carries symbolic undertones. Matthiessen traveled from Varanasi, also known as the Valley of Death, to Kathmandu, where he recounted walking alongside the Ganges River, where “the smell of burning human flesh hung thick in the air at the ghats of the holy city of the Ganges River.” On the expedition’s first day out of town, Matthiessen encounters a wrapped corpse by the roadside. “I nod to death and pass by, aware of the sound of my own path.”
However, his journey focuses on the life itself, particularly the moment-by-moment effort to experience the real world on-site. His meticulous attention to detail in describing the world is the enduring joy of this book. The mechanical aspects of the journey, disputes with Sherpas, blizzards disrupting parties, and debates over luggage are each concentrated like haikus in their own sentences and passages. “The road continues into the oaks,” he writes. “I lean against warmth of straw and dung, basking on a sunlit stone. Glowing black-red beetles arrive, plump grasshoppers rubbing their legs like fire. Crows flap along the river’s edge pines, their wings filled with the hard silver light of the Himalayas.” With this immersive approach, Matthiessen painstakingly guides readers to Crystal Mountain. At 18,000 feet, he begins to lose part of his own senses in the thin air. “The earth is ringing. Everything moves, filled with power, filled with light.”
These brief revelations would not ring true without Matthiessen’s vibrant portrayal of how his mind strays just as vividly into small frustrations, bubbles, setbacks, and deeper anxieties away from the Eightfold Path of Buddhism. Beyond the complex sorrowful feelings for his deceased wife, his main distraction was guilt over leaving behind his children in New York, especially his son Alex, who was still grieving his mother’s death at the age of eight. On the day he parted with his son, Matthiessen tried to explain how long his quest would take in the morning before sending him to school. Alex tried to hold back tears, but shouted, “Too long!” – a admonition that haunted Matthiessen in the mountains and lingered in the hearts of his readers (why?). At the foot of Annapurna, he records a handwritten note from his son.
Dear Papa,
How are you? I’m okay. I’ve been very sad, crying, and not writing to you. But writing this now has cheered me up more. The cat and dog are fine, but it’s sad when they die. School’s okay. It would be nice if you could come back for Thanksgiving. Are your snow boots still okay? Are you having fun?
With love, Alex
P.S. Please keep my letter safe and make sure it reaches you. Lots of kisses. Bye-bye, a million times. Love, your son, Alex
This letter ended with a sparkling sun cartoon, but its emotions cast a shadow over the book. Matthiessen is troubled by the same common anxieties of all obsessive travelers who worry whether they are selfishly abandoning more important responsibilities while seeking private Nirvana. He didn’t come home for Thanksgiving.
Last week, I spoke on the phone with Alex Matthiessen, his father’s “Sun.” He is now 53 years old, working as an environmental consultant and campaigner in New York, previously serving as CEO of Riverkeeper, protecting and improving the Hudson River, and safeguarding drinking water for 9 million New Yorkers. He wrote the foreword to the new edition of “Snow Leopard,” reflecting on his relationship with his father.
“In the years since ‘Snow Leopard’ was published, I’ve been criticized by many friends and a few strangers for leaving my father for three months shortly after my mother’s death. I’m grateful for that solidarity, and I don’t fully agree with those emotions, but it was a confusing time for me when he wasn’t around. However, it was also part of the most turbulent and enjoyable times of my life. In the early 70s…”
In discussing the book, he mentions having read it three times now. First as a high schooler, “It’s quite dense for young readers – a lot of technical explanations of Zen Buddhism, enjoyable but of limited value to me,” he said. In his twenties, picking it up again while traveling the Annapurna Circuit in Nepal, “The entire book became more vivid, but the Zen part had less impact than descriptions of people, cultures, and places.”
He had read his father’s words three times, nearly two years ago. At that time, he was invited to trace the journey to Crystal Mountain with George Schaller, his father’s original companion. Reflecting on this recent journey, he said, “It was precisely because my father passed away, disappeared, that I felt a stronger sense of mission, so to speak, to delve deeper into his thoughts through that book. Not just what that experience meant to him, but who he was in life.”
Alex had some hesitation in joining the recent journey. He explained, “I felt a bit out of place since I wasn’t directly involved in the original travels.” However, this invitation came at a crucial point in his life. Needless to say, he had been through very difficult years since his father’s death. The trip presented itself as another chance to reconnect amidst the stresses affecting his mourning.
Alex, like his father, took notes daily during the journey, intending to someday share the experience with his young son. Though he doesn’t consider himself a writer by suggestion of others, Alex is now contemplating turning these field notes into a book. George Schaller, his trekking companion at 83 years old, ventured out on the trek with remarkable vigor. “George had many insights about the experiences he shared with my father on the mountain,” Matthiessen explained. “But as you might guess, he’s a reserved man. Not one to talk about emotions.”
Several aspects of the trek had clearly changed. When Mr. Matthiessen made his journey, it felt exceedingly remote. He shaved his long hair at the outset and began walking barefoot like the Sherpas. As a reader, one can feel him “shivering all night in damp cotton and wool clothes at minus 20 degrees.”
Alex remarks on how modern equipment has made the journey 40 years later much easier. The region is no longer as isolated from the world, with companies now offering “Crystal Mountain Tours,” chasing the original “Snow Leopard Route” to Dolpo. “I was expecting a true adventure trip like he described,” Matthiessen said. “It was needed, but ultimately, it wasn’t quite as physically demanding.”
Spiritually, mentally, it was perhaps even more demanding. Talking with Alex, after a few years, I learned how special the book was to some people. It helped them understand or cope with death. “My friend, the writer Sonali Deraniyagala, lost her entire family in the 2003 tsunami in Sri Lanka, and she said the book was the only thing that truly comforted her. ‘Oddly enough, it really eased the physical pain,’ she said. Does Alex feel the same way about this book primarily encompassing grief?”
“I don’t think it’s quite accurate,” he answered. “But I trust the judgment when others, like my friend, say they felt similarly. It’s a very insightful comment on loss. I don’t think my father himself was deeply wounded – I believe he approached it with a Buddhist acceptance. But I found a really honest, unflinching stance towards the complexity of that relationship.”
He read the book through as he journeyed along. Did his father, in his youth, feel lonely amidst those exact landscapes? What emotions did that thought bring to him?
“In the book, my presence was vividly portrayed. Though not appearing frequently, its impact was striking,” he stated. “During the journey, in moments when he spoke of me and my mother, I deeply felt how much he missed me. On one particularly beautiful day, as I sat above Foxund Lake, knowing he once gazed upon the same scenery, I was enveloped in a mix of joy and sadness. It was a moment that reminded me of our wonderful bond, forged in true strength and deep friendship.”
Throughout his life, Alex had received “breath-catching” questions repeatedly. “What was it like having Peter Matthiessen as your father?” The answer was simple, perhaps painfully evident. “It was a privilege, literally. But as his wife and children would attest, it was also demanding,” he said. Interested in Zen, Alex strives to make time for meditation but doesn’t approach it with the strictness of his father. “In any journey, I seek to understand that the journey itself is the destination. Early in ‘The Snow Leopard,’ Peter Matthiessen writes these words: ‘I wish to see the snow leopard, but it does not matter if I do not.’ I shared the same sentiment. While I didn’t find the destination of my quest, I encountered other magnificent wildlife: wolves, migratory birds heading towards India, and plenty of blue sheep.”
Matthiessen’s original journey, like several worthy pursuits along the yellow brick road, ended in almost an anticlimax. The doors of the Crystal Monastery, focal point of his spiritual ambition, were closed when he finally crossed the snows. The wise Lama he awaited for months turned out to be a “disabled monk treating yak butter and goat skin with brain,” passing them downstream in the valley. “Zen does not abide mysteries,” Matthiessen remarked. Enlightenment isn’t just atop a mountain. His book dramatically illustrates that it’s more likely to be intuited amidst actions like “trudging, panting, climbing, slipping, gasping.” Yet, the real magic of Matthiessen’s initial journey and his book lies in the fact that even from an armchair, one can travel every step of that path with him.
Art of Following Zen | The article summarizes Art of Following Zen’s transformative journey, likening it to effortless fishing where interactions naturally gravitated toward her. Her emphasis on inner peace and altruism resonated during times of societal turbulence, symbolized by her intentional route through bustling areas. Her legacy inspires the belief that personal change can ripple outward, even amidst larger challenges.
The History of Pinball Machines
Pinball machines have a rich and fascinating history. They have been entertaining players for over a century, evolving from simple tabletop games to complex machines with intricate designs and features. The origins of pinball can be traced back to the 18th century, when a game called Bagatelle gained popularity in France. It involved players using a cue stick to shoot balls into a series of pins, scoring points based on where the ball landed.
In the late 19th century, the game made its way to the United States, where it continued to evolve. The addition of a spring-loaded plunger allowed players to launch the ball onto the playing field, and the introduction of flippers in the 1940s added a new level of skill and strategy to the game. Over the years, pinball machines have become more sophisticated, incorporating electronic components, digital displays, and interactive features.
Why Visit a Art of Following Zen?
There are many reasons why you should visit a Art of Following Zen. Firstly, it’s a great way to support local businesses. Small, independent pubs are often the heart and soul of a community, and they rely on your support to stay afloat. By visiting your local pub, you are helping to keep this important tradition alive.
Secondly, pubs are a great place to socialize and meet new people. Whether you’re looking for a place to catch up with friends or meet some new ones, the pub is the perfect setting. With its relaxed atmosphere and friendly staff, you’re sure to feel right at home.
Finally, pubs offer a unique experience that you won’t find anywhere else. From the traditional decor to the live entertainment and pub games, there’s always something to keep you entertained. Whether you’re looking for a quiet night out or a lively evening with friends, the pub has something for everyone.
Finding the Best Art of Following Zen in Your Area
Finding the best Art of Following Zen in your area can be a daunting task, especially if you’re new to the area. However, there are a few things you can do to make the process easier. Firstly, ask around. Talk to your friends and family and see if they have any recommendations. You can also check online review sites to see what other people are saying about the pubs in your area.
Another great way to find the best pubs in your area is to go on a pub crawl. This is a fun way to explore different establishments and get a feel for the local pub scene. Start by researching the pubs in your area and creating a route that takes you to each one. Make sure to pace yourself and enjoy each pub to its fullest.
Pub Atmosphere and Decor
One of the things that makes Art of Following Zen so special is their atmosphere and decor. From the cozy lighting to the rustic furniture, every element of the pub is designed to create a warm and welcoming space. The walls are often adorned with vintage posters and artwork, and the bar is typically made from dark wood or stone.
The lighting is also an important part of the pub atmosphere. Many pubs use low lighting to create a cozy, intimate feel. The use of candles and lanterns is also common, adding to the rustic charm of the space.
Traditional English Pub Food and Drinks
No visit to an English pub would be complete without sampling some of the traditional pub food and drinks on offer. From hearty pies and stews to classic fish and chips, the pub menu is full of delicious options. Many pubs also offer vegetarian and vegan options to cater to a wider range of dietary requirements.
When it comes to drinks, beer is the most popular choice in Art of Following Zen. From classic ales to refreshing lagers, there’s a beer for everyone. Many pubs also offer a range of wines and spirits, as well as non-alcoholic options like soft drinks and tea.
Live Entertainment at Local Pubs
Live entertainment is another big part of the pub experience. Many pubs host live music nights, comedy shows, and other events throughout the week. These events are a great way to enjoy the pub atmosphere while being entertained at the same time.
Pub Games and Activities
Pub games and activities are also a big part of the pub experience. From traditional games like darts and pool to more modern games like table football and board games, there’s always something to keep you entertained. Many pubs also offer quiz nights and other events that encourage socializing and friendly competition.
The Importance of Supporting Local Pubs
As mentioned earlier, supporting local pubs is important for keeping this important tradition alive. Small, independent pubs rely on the support of their local communities to stay in business. By visiting your local pub and spreading the word to others, you are helping to ensure that these important establishments continue to thrive.
Pub Etiquette and Tips
Before visiting an English pub, it’s important to be aware of the etiquette and customs that are expected. Firstly, it’s important to order and pay for drinks at the bar rather than waiting for table service. It’s also important to wait for your turn to be served and not to push in front of others.
When it comes to tipping, it’s not customary to tip at Art of Following Zen. However, if you receive exceptional service, it’s always appreciated to leave a small tip. Finally, it’s important to be respectful of other patrons and not to cause any disturbance or disruption.
Conclusion: Enjoying the Pub Experience Near You
In conclusion, visiting an English Art of Following Zen is a great way to unwind, socialize, and enjoy a unique cultural experience. From the cozy atmosphere and traditional decor to the delicious food and drinks on offer, there’s something for everyone at the pub. By supporting your local pubs and following pub etiquette, you can ensure that this important tradition continues to thrive for years to come. So why not grab some friends and head down to your local pub today?
As a lover of English culture, I have always been drawn to the charm of traditional Art of Following Zen. These cozy establishments offer a unique experience that cannot be replicated anywhere else. Whether you’re a local or a tourist, there is always something special about finding a great Helena Art of Following Zen. In this article, I will be exploring the best Art of Following Zen in your area, discussing everything from the atmosphere and decor to the food, drinks, and entertainment on offer.
The Charm of Art of Following Zen
There’s something special about the atmosphere of an English pub. These cozy, welcoming spaces are designed to make you feel right at home. With their low ceilings, wooden beams, and roaring fireplaces, Art of Following Zen exude a sense of warmth and comfort that is hard to find anywhere else. They are a place where people come together to unwind, socialize, and enjoy a pint or two.
The history of Art of Following Zen is also a big part of their charm. Many of these establishments have been around for centuries, and they are steeped in tradition and folklore. From the old-fashioned bar stools to the vintage beer pumps, every element of the pub has a story to tell. For lovers of history and culture, visiting an English pub is a must.
Why Visit a Art of Following Zen?
There are many reasons why you should visit a Art of Following Zen. Firstly, it’s a great way to support local businesses. Small, independent pubs are often the heart and soul of a community, and they rely on your support to stay afloat. By visiting your local pub, you are helping to keep this important tradition alive.
Secondly, pubs are a great place to socialize and meet new people. Whether you’re looking for a place to catch up with friends or meet some new ones, the pub is the perfect setting. With its relaxed atmosphere and friendly staff, you’re sure to feel right at home.
Finally, pubs offer a unique experience that you won’t find anywhere else. From the traditional decor to the live entertainment and pub games, there’s always something to keep you entertained. Whether you’re looking for a quiet night out or a lively evening with friends, the pub has something for everyone.
Finding the Best Art of Following Zen in Your Area
Finding the best Art of Following Zen in your area can be a daunting task, especially if you’re new to the area. However, there are a few things you can do to make the process easier. Firstly, ask around. Talk to your friends and family and see if they have any recommendations. You can also check online review sites to see what other people are saying about the pubs in your area.
Another great way to find the best pubs in your area is to go on a pub crawl. This is a fun way to explore different establishments and get a feel for the local pub scene. Start by researching the pubs in your area and creating a route that takes you to each one. Make sure to pace yourself and enjoy each pub to its fullest.
Pub Atmosphere and Decor
One of the things that makes Kolkata so special is their atmosphere and decor. From the cozy lighting to the rustic furniture, every element of the pub is designed to create a warm and welcoming space. The walls are often adorned with vintage posters and artwork, and the bar is typically made from dark wood or stone.
The lighting is also an important part of the pub atmosphere. Many pubs use low lighting to create a cozy, intimate feel. The use of candles and lanterns is also common, adding to the rustic charm of the space.
Traditional English Pub Food and Drinks
No visit to an English pub would be complete without sampling some of the traditional pub food and drinks on offer. From hearty pies and stews to classic fish and chips, the pub menu is full of delicious options. Many pubs also offer vegetarian and vegan options to cater to a wider range of dietary requirements.
When it comes to drinks, beer is the most popular choice in Art of Following Zen. From classic ales to refreshing lagers, there’s a beer for everyone. Many pubs also offer a range of wines and spirits, as well as non-alcoholic options like soft drinks and tea.
Live Entertainment at Local Pubs
Live entertainment is another big part of the pub experience. Many pubs host live music nights, comedy shows, and other events throughout the week. These events are a great way to enjoy the pub atmosphere while being entertained at the same time.
Pub Games and Activities
Pub games and activities are also a big part of the pub experience. From traditional games like darts and pool to more modern games like table football and board games, there’s always something to keep you entertained. Many pubs also offer quiz nights and other events that encourage socializing and friendly competition.
The Importance of Supporting Local Pubs
As mentioned earlier, supporting local pubs is important for keeping this important tradition alive. Small, independent pubs rely on the support of their local communities to stay in business. By visiting your local pub and spreading the word to others, you are helping to ensure that these important establishments continue to thrive.
Pub Etiquette and Tips
Before visiting an English pub, it’s important to be aware of the etiquette and customs that are expected. Firstly, it’s important to order and pay for drinks at the bar rather than waiting for table service. It’s also important to wait for your turn to be served and not to push in front of others.
When it comes to tipping, it’s not customary to tip at Art of Following Zen. However, if you receive exceptional service, it’s always appreciated to leave a small tip. Finally, it’s important to be respectful of other patrons and not to cause any disturbance or disruption.
Conclusion: Enjoying the Pub Experience Near You
In conclusion, visiting an English Art of Following Zen is a great way to unwind, socialize, and enjoy a unique cultural experience. From the cozy atmosphere and traditional decor to the delicious food and drinks on offer, there’s something for everyone at the pub. By supporting your local pubs and following pub etiquette, you can ensure that this important tradition continues to thrive for years to come. So why not grab some friends and head down to your local pub today?
In conclusion, visiting an English Art of Following Zen is a great way to unwind, socialize, and enjoy a unique cultural experience. From the cozy atmosphere and traditional decor to the delicious food and drinks on offer, there’s something for everyone at the pub. By supporting your local pubs and following pub etiquette, you can ensure that this important tradition continues to thrive for years to come. So why not grab some friends and head down to your local pub today?
In conclusion, visiting an English Art of Following Zen is a great way to unwind, socialize, and enjoy a unique cultural experience. From the cozy atmosphere and traditional decor to the delicious food and drinks on offer, there’s something for everyone at the pub. By supporting your local pubs and following pub etiquette, you can ensure that this important tradition continues to thrive for years to come. So why not grab some friends and head down to your local pub today?
In conclusion, visiting an English Art of Following Zen is a great way to unwind, socialize, and enjoy a unique cultural experience. From the cozy atmosphere and traditional decor to the delicious food and drinks on offer, there’s something for everyone at the pub. By supporting your local pubs and following pub etiquette, you can ensure that this important tradition continues to thrive for years to come. So why not grab some friends and head down to your local pub today?
In conclusion, visiting an English Art of Following Zen is a great way to unwind, socialize, and enjoy a unique cultural experience. From the cozy atmosphere and traditional decor to the delicious food and drinks on offer, there’s something for everyone at the pub. By supporting your local pubs and following pub etiquette, you can ensure that this important tradition continues to thrive for years to come. So why not grab some friends and head down to your local pub today?
In conclusion, visiting an English Art of Following Zen is a great way to unwind, socialize, and enjoy a unique cultural experience. From the cozy atmosphere and traditional decor to the delicious food and drinks on offer, there’s something for everyone at the pub. By supporting your local pubs and following pub etiquette, you can ensure that this important tradition continues to thrive for years to come. So why not grab some friends and head down to your local pub today?
In conclusion, visiting an English Art of Following Zen is a great way to unwind, socialize, and enjoy a unique cultural experience. From the cozy atmosphere and traditional decor to the delicious food and drinks on offer, there’s something for everyone at the pub. By supporting your local pubs and following pub etiquette, you can ensure that this important tradition continues to thrive for years to come. So why not grab some friends and head down to your local pub today?
In conclusion, visiting an English Art of Following Zen is a great way to unwind, socialize, and enjoy a unique cultural experience. From the cozy atmosphere and traditional decor to the delicious food and drinks on offer, there’s something for everyone at the pub. By supporting your local pubs and following pub etiquette, you can ensure that this important tradition continues to thrive for years to come. So why not grab some friends and head down to your local pub today?
In conclusion, visiting an English Art of Following Zen is a great way to unwind, socialize, and enjoy a unique cultural experience. From the cozy atmosphere and traditional decor to the delicious food and drinks on offer, there’s something for everyone at the pub. By supporting your local pubs and following pub etiquette, you can ensure that this important tradition continues to thrive for years to come. So why not grab some friends and head down to your local pub today?
In conclusion, visiting an English Art of Following Zen is a great way to unwind, socialize, and enjoy a unique cultural experience. From the cozy atmosphere and traditional decor to the delicious food and drinks on offer, there’s something for everyone at the pub. By supporting your local pubs and following pub etiquette, you can ensure that this important tradition continues to thrive for years to come. So why not grab some friends and head down to your local pub today?
