Blogs

Life among the Nomads of the Ladakh Plateau—High Plains Drifters On the desolate and breathtaking Changtang Plateau in India, shepherds carve out their existence amidst an environment that is as unforgiving as it is majestic. Near the shimmering waters of Tsomoriri Lake, the Changpa nomads graze their livestock. Zhering Dolkar, a 60-year-old Changpa woman, sits on the floor of her tent, her face lit up with a radiant smile. She skillfully rolls a bloated sheep’s stomach back and forth on her lap, churning fresh milk into butter. It is just past ten in the morning, and most of the six families residing in this small settlement have already ventured out […]

Snow Leopard Tours in Ladakh: An Encounter with Elusiveness In the towering embrace of the Himalayas, a grassroots initiative showcases a harmonious existence between humanity and the most elusive of creatures, making a poignant argument for community-led conservation efforts. What does elusiveness signify in the realm of wildlife? When an animal is so elusive it seems to shun human eyes, does nature issue an unspoken “Do Not Disturb” directive? And when this elusive being inhabits a fragile ecosystem endangered by human encroachment, what are the ethical considerations of venturing into its domain, even if such exploration might foster conservation? These were the contemplations that accompanied me as I gazed out […]

The Illusion of Eden and Paradise In the languid days of my youth, I boarded a plane in the throbbing heart of New York City, bound for a distant corner of the globe. When the aircraft finally touched down in Bali, the world outside was cloaked in darkness. Yet, as the sun crested the horizon the next morning, I was greeted by a young man with a radiant smile, offering me ripe mangoes and strong tea on the sun-drenched terrace of my bungalow. Surrounding me were little girls with angelic faces, frolicking amidst a riot of colors. The dreary chill of midwinter had given way, almost as if by enchantment, […]

Embarking on the Ultimate Journey with the Ultimate Travelling Camp Arriving in Leh, the plane’s descent unveils a spectacle of snow-kissed Himalayan peaks towering over a desolate yet captivating Martian expanse. This grand introduction sets the tone for the journey ahead in Ladakh, a realm defined by its high-altitude passes, shimmering rivers, and the profound cultural tapestry woven into the very fabric of this remote land. The initial breathlessness upon leaving the small, bustling airport serves as a stark reminder of Ladakh’s lofty perch. As a high-altitude desert, it offers a unique climate where summer reigns supreme from June to October. My early June arrival, at the cusp of the […]

Tso Moriri: A Lake Among the Clouds In the shadow of the towering peaks, Tso Moriri stands as a testament to the raw, unyielding beauty of the Himalayas. The name is unassuming, yet the stories that surround it are anything but. They speak of the lake’s origins, where a Buddhist nun, in her search for a lost yak, called out “ri, ri” across the ice. The beast and its pursuer met a tragic fate, swallowed by the freezing waters—a tale woven with the threads of myth and harsh reality, much like the landscape itself. My journey to Tso Moriri in August was a marathon of endurance, a ten-hour drive that […]

After eight hours on what was promised as a mere six-hour trek through the secluded Sko Valley of Ladakh, our base camp remained elusive. Each time my resolve faltered, the wilderness seemed determined to mesmerize me further. We meandered past three stunning lakes, their waters undisturbed by human presence, while rugged, unclimbed peaks loomed protectively over glaciers that nourished the Ku Lungpa River. And the crossing of that river? Just another adventure in our tale! The sun flirted endlessly with the clouds, casting me alternately as a roast potato and a frostbitten icicle. The wind hummed a ceaseless melody, as if nature itself were urging me onward, “Persevere, you fool!” […]

Embarking on the Markha Valley Expedition Having previously ventured through the Sham Valley, I now turned my gaze towards one of Ladakh’s most storied paths: the Markha Valley Trek. Armed with my trusted camera, I was prepared to capture the essence of this renowned journey. Ladakh, cloaked in the natural fortifications of its rugged mountains and enduring the harsh grip of its winters, remains one of India’s most secluded terrains. Its spectacular vistas and the lure of the Himalayan peaks draw travelers, both local and international, to its summer embrace. The allure of Buddhist festivals and iconic sites like Pangong Tso—a high-altitude lake celebrated in the film “3 Idiots”—add to […]

Aryan Valley Artifacts: The Valley of the Dards Revealed The road to the Aryan Valley is not marked on most maps, but it is etched in the memory of those who venture into its hidden depths. My journey began as most do in Ladakh—by air, descending into Leh’s thin air before moving onward to Nurla, a modest village with little fanfare. Nurla’s purpose was simple: to give me a place to catch my breath, both literally and metaphorically, before I plunged into the enigmatic world of the Brokpa Dards. The route to Dha, where the Brokpa dwell, follows the winding course of the Indus River. The river, ancient and unyielding, […]

Nubra Valley journey: The road winds through the desolate heights, a ribbon of peril clinging to the mountainside, where stones the size of beasts tumble without warning, and the skeletal remains of vehicles long fallen dot the landscape, a silent testament to the dangers lurking in the shadows. There are no barriers here, nothing but the jagged edge of reality and the pull of the abyss below. In the front seat of our jeep, I feel the weight of each moment, every turn a gamble against the snow and ice that coat the Khardung La Pass. The air is thin, and time stretches, slowing down to a crawl as we […]

Turtuk Village, in the shadow of the Ladakh mountains, is a land both silent and severe where time seems to be in no rush. Here, nestled close to the border of Pakistan, a quiet king oversees his domain. Yabgo Mohammad Khan Kacho, the last remnant of a once-great dynasty, speaks of his ancestors with a calm certainty. “For 2,000 years, my family has ruled these lands,” he remarks, his voice steady like the flow of the Shyok River that winds its way through the valley. The king’s realm is modest, its borders defined by fields of buckwheat and the rough-hewn stones of village paths. Turtuk, with its deep Muslim roots, […]