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Ladakh Explorer: This border region of Tibet is a vast valley of moorlands and rocks. Trekkers have made it their paradise. By Sacha Goussin Published on January 30, 2008, at 6:00 AM All we see are Tata trucks, from the largest Indian industrial group. For the past three days, we’ve been continuously crossing these large, colorful vehicles adorned with garlands of flowers. Three days of incessant horn blasts, which here serve as turn signals. Three days of zigzagging between cows, rickshaws, handcarts, and potholes. This bustling scene comes to a sudden halt in Darcha. It is here, in the silence of this village, at 3300 meters altitude, that our trek […]
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Ladakh, India: Spoonfuls of Culture Alongside the Himalayas, its Ladakh cuisine is nourished by an immense amount of stories. A new generation is turning tradition into a tool for cultural resurgence. In the region of Ladakh, everything revolves around home, in all its senses. Even time itself moves to the rhythm set by the thap, the traditional clay oven still seen in many old Ladakhi homes. The first rays of light enter through strategically placed openings, illuminating the surface, warming it before cooking time, and turning the structure into a kind of sundial. As the day progresses, the light shifts, capturing the sinuous movement of steam, while the shadows of […]
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Have you ever encountered a moment that defies explanation? Recently, I had such an experience that left me pondering long after it occurred. Back in January of this year, my friends and I embarked on the Chadar Trek, an adventure through the Zanskar Gorge. This trek is renowned for its challenges, as it is undertaken during the frigid winter months of January and February when the Zanskar River turns into a frozen pathway. Walking over the ice-covered river to reach the valley is no small feat, given the extreme cold and treacherous conditions. Yet, for trekking enthusiasts, it’s an exhilarating journey, offering a unique blend of adrenaline and natural splendor. […]
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Memories and Traditions in Ladakh Over the past six years, I’ve had the fortune and joy of visiting Ladakh multiple times. I’ve come to appreciate how the people here embody a spirit of generosity and hospitality worthy of legend. The memories of my first journey are still vivid—the colorful flags fluttering in the wind, the scent of sage burning in temples, the sound of the breeze rustling through willow branches by the river, and the warmth of the expansive sky during the long summer. I was amazed to find that this community has embraced globalization within less than half a century. What surprised me is that despite accepting modernization, they […]
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Vanishing Nomads : The World Through the Lens For centuries, the nomads of Karnak have navigated some of the planet’s most awe-inspiring yet unforgiving landscapes while tending to their herds. Will their time-honored traditions endure through the sweeping migrations that define their way of life? Tsering Stobdan demonstrated the art of using a yak-hair sling by placing pebbles inside and propelling them through the air with a deft flick of his wrist. He explained that this technique is crucial for safeguarding his livestock from predators and retrieving stray goats. It’s just one of the many skills he has perfected to thrive in this challenging environment. In contrast, at an elevation […]
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To reach the Desert Rain Café in the heart of Leh, you must veer off the bustling main street that leads to the mosque and navigate a narrow passageway that runs parallel to the back alleys. These alleys are barely paved and so narrow that more than three people passing through at the same time is nearly impossible. The ruins of the Leh Palace loom over from the hilltop above. Entering through the back door of a building and climbing a steep staircase in traditional Himalayan style, you arrive at a small second-floor space overlooking Bazaar Street. As you step inside and remove your shoes, you’re greeted by a miraculous […]
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Ladakh Festivals Schedule : Discover the Magic of Ladakh’s Monastic Festivals You’ve likely heard about monastic festivals, but let us introduce you to the rich and enchanting Buddhist traditions of Ladakh. These festivals are not merely celebrations but are deeply woven into the fabric of Ladakhi life, serving as a way to mark the passage of time and the changing seasons. Spanning throughout the year, these vibrant festivals are celebrated in numerous gompas (monasteries) scattered across Ladakh’s stunning, rugged landscapes. Each festival brings with it a unique tapestry of rituals and performances that have been cherished for centuries. On festival days, locals flock to the monasteries dressed in their finest […]
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It seems that trees communicate and collaborate through an underground fungal network. What are they sharing? In her childhood, Suzanne Simard often explored the old-growth forests of Canada with her siblings, building forts out of fallen branches, collecting mushrooms and huckleberries, and sometimes even tasting the soil (she liked the taste). Nearby, her grandfather and uncles were engaged in low-impact logging with horses, selectively harvesting cedar, Douglas fir, and white pine. Because the number of trees felled was minimal, Simard barely noticed any difference. The forest seemed endless and ancient, a shimmering expanse of conifers and rain-drenched jewels, teeming with ferns and fairy bells. To her, it was a realm […]
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Peter Matthiessen’s “Snow Leopard,” a renowned book on spiritual exploration in the Buddhist monasteries of the Himalayas, has reached its 40th anniversary since publication. His son, Alex, retraced that trek. Can one become an armchair Zen monk? It’s one of the questions posed by Peter Matthiessen’s great exploration, “Snow Leopard.” Among all the books I’ve read in my lifetime, especially in recent years, none has vividly captured Matthiessen’s acclaimed trekking journey, the “journey of the heart” to the ancient Tibetan plateau of Dolpo in the high Himalayas. Many believe this. Since its first edition in 1978, “Snow Leopard” has arguably inspired the paths of hippies and backpackers venturing beyond Kathmandu […]
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On the longest day of last year, I visited what they call “the highest motorable road in the world.” But “road” might not be the right word. Nor is “pass.” Icicles hung from the mountainside, and along the winding path were memorials to soldiers who had “departed for heaven” after falling off the cliffs. The driver, with a red face and an indomitable spirit, crawled out of the rickety Toyota and began fiddling with the loose starter. This was not what I had hoped for at 18,350 feet. Pink fluid was leaking from the truck in front of us. It was hard to believe that 90 minutes ago, we had […]