Visiting Leh-Ladakh, you ask?
Leh is the joint capital of Ladakh, the new Union Territory of India. It’s a terrestrial paradise, impossible to capture its magical essence in mere photographs.
Recently, I had the chance to visit Ladakh, and the memories are vivid. Embarking on an 8-day road trip with childhood friends, let me share our itinerary. It may not suit everyone, but here it goes.
Participants: 5
Vehicle: Mahindra XUV
Driving: Self-driven
RT-PCR Test: Done
Permits for Nubra, Pangong: Obtained
Day 1:
We departed from my hometown, Mandi (Himachal Pradesh), around 8 p.m. after work and booked accommodation in Siss, Lahaul district (about 150 km from Mandi). We reached Siss around 1 a.m. and hit the bed immediately. Siss is a beautiful town; do visit if you have time (which we didn’t this trip).
Heart-shaped waterfall in Siss
Day 2:
Post breakfast, we left Siss around 8 a.m. with a plan to reach Leh, about 400 km away, by the end of Day 2.
Important note: Google Maps shows an 11-hour journey, but it doesn’t factor in landslides, heavy traffic, or Pagal Nala (glacial water blocking roads). It’s an optimistic estimate; we expected 13-14 hours.
The journey commenced, passing through beautiful villages like Darcha and Baralacha’s snow-clad peaks, reaching Sarchu, the last village in Himachal Pradesh.
Here are photos from this route:
Darcha village
Suraj Tal
Baralacha Pass
The road to Sarchu was relatively smooth as per Google Maps’ time. After checking RT-PCR reports in Sarchu and having lunch, we left for Leh around 3 p.m.
We were on schedule to reach Leh around 9 p.m., with about 260 km left. But it was a big miscalculation. The real adventure began here.
About 80 km from Sarchu lies Pang, a tough stretch taking about 6 hours for 80 km due to numerous potholes, sandstorms, and roadworks causing delays. This GIF tells the story of this rugged terrain.
Arriving in Pang way behind schedule around 9 p.m., Leh was still 170 km away. We debated staying in Pang or pushing to Leh, exhausted but eventually decided on Leh.
The road from Pang to Leh was breathtaking.
Road from Pang to Leh (shot on the return journey)
We arrived at our Leh accommodation around 2 a.m. and collapsed on our beds.
Day 3:
After the long Day 2, we woke around 10 a.m., had breakfast, and explored famous spots in Leh.
Visited Indian Army’s Hall of Fame, Magnetic Hill, Gurudwara Pathar Sahib (worth a visit), and Shanti Stupa. Leh was bustling with tourists, mostly sightseeing. Here are some photos:
Leh
Hall of Fame
Magnetic Hill
Shanti Stupa
The next day was planned for Nubra and Pangong. Permits are required for these. It’s advisable to carry printed permits.
We had dinner at a famous Tibetan restaurant, enjoying a good evening.
Day 4:
Departed Leh around 10 a.m. for Nubra Valley, where we had booked military accommodation. Nubra is heaven – water, greenery, sand dunes, and snow blend seamlessly.
The hospitality at the military stay was superb, making it one of life’s best nights.
Day 5:
Headed to Pangong Tso. We were supposed to reach Tangtse, about 170 km from Nubra (a 5-hour drive). Due to roadblocks, we arrived in Tangtse late and planned to see the lake the next morning.
Day 6:
Knowing Pangong’s strong sun, we left Tangtse around 6 a.m. and reached Pangong Lake at 7:30 a.m., awestruck by its beauty. I’ve visited beautiful lakes in Himachal (Suraj Tal, Chandratal, Prashar Lake, Kareri Lake, etc.), but Pangong is unparalleled – a mosaic of blue hues, enchanting. The ending scene of the movie “3 Idiots” was shot here.
The lake’s beauty remains vivid in memory. After spending 4-5 satisfying hours, we left. Traffic and bad roads delayed us again, reaching Sarchu around 11 p.m. Tired but to minimize the return journey, we aimed for Jispa (Lahaul district), still about 85 km away.
Day 7:
Around 1 a.m., we encountered Pagal Nala near Baralacha Pass, some cars stranded. Realizing we’d have to spend the night in the car (almost out of fuel to turn back), we were fortunate to have blankets against the cold.
In the morning, seeing cars cross water, we followed suit, finally relieved. The plan was to reach home on Day 7, but nature had other plans.
At Keylong, we found the road to Mandi blocked due to a landslide. While it might open, night travel was risky.
To avoid the risk, we stayed in Keylong, departing early without breakfast to avoid landslides. By midday, we were home, concluding the journey.
In essence, Ladakh is stunning. Carry RT-PCR tests, permits, enough fuel, and keep buffer time. Nature’s whims often alter plans.
