A Frozen Highway to an Ancient Kingdom
In the summer, the Zanskar River roars through the deep canyons of the Himalayas, a tumultuous force of nature. Yet, as winter descends, it transforms into a lifeline of ice, the sole passage out of this remote valley. For centuries, Zanskar has remained isolated, ensconced in the dramatic embrace of the Great Himalayan range. With altitudes averaging 3,600 meters and peaks soaring as high as 7,000 meters, this valley has been a world apart. The locals often say, “The land is so barren and the passes so high that only our fiercest enemies or our best friends would want to visit us.”
The Valley in the Spotlight
Zanskar’s isolation has preserved its rich tapestry of ancient Tibetan Buddhist culture, largely untouched by external influences. However, the valley garnered global attention when the BBC’s “Human Planet” aired poignant footage of children trekking 100 kilometers to return to school after winter vacation. This stark portrayal of the valley’s rugged reality brought its hidden world into the spotlight.
Changing Times and New Priorities
Once, Zanskar’s communities thrived on subsistence farming and cattle rearing. But as times change, education has become a priority. Today, children are sent to larger towns like Kargil or Leh to attend school and colleges. The summer months see locals traveling along a road, established in 1979, that connects Zanskar to Kargil. Before its construction, treks over high passes were the only way out during the warmer months.
The Ice Passage: An Alternate Route
Come winter, the road through Penzi La, a 5,000-meter-high pass, is rendered impassable by heavy snowfall. Yet, the Zanskari people have long relied on an alternative: the frozen Zanskar River. As temperatures plunge to -40°C, the river’s upper layers solidify into a remarkable ice passage known as the Chadar hike, which serves as the valley’s winter lifeline.
Navigating the Icy Frontier
The Chadar hike presents a varied landscape of crystal-clear ice expanses and precarious ledges. The underlying river, ever-flowing and unpredictable, exerts tremendous pressure on the ice surface, causing frequent disruptions. This dynamic environment results in ice layers that break and settle repeatedly.
Mastering the Art of Ice Walking
Stretching approximately 100 kilometers, the Chadar hike becomes the only means for the inhabitants of numerous roadless villages to exit the valley during January and February. Despite the challenges posed by the shifting ice, the Zanskari people have honed their skill in navigating this treacherous terrain. Outsiders may take seven to ten days to complete the hike, while locals achieve it in just two to four days, deftly maneuvering over the ice with wooden sleds.
Faith and Resilience
In the harshness of this land, faith becomes a crucial shield. The Zanskari people, deeply religious, seek divine protection for their journey. The trail is adorned with fluttering prayer flags, juniper incense, and khata, traditional ceremonial scarves, all offerings to appease the gods and ensure safe passage.
Sheltering from the Cold
Along the icy trail, several small caves nestled in the rocky river canyon offer welcome shelter. These natural alcoves, used for centuries, warm up quickly and provide a cozy respite from the freezing temperatures.
The Threat of Mass Tourism
What was once a solitary, necessity-driven trek is now increasingly crowded. The “wildest trek in the world” label has attracted a surge of mass tourism, posing a threat to the region’s delicate ecosystem and economy. The pristine serenity of the Chadar hike is now endangered by commercialization.
The Road to Change
Meanwhile, construction of an all-weather road is steadily advancing into the heart of Zanskar along the river. This project, a decade in the making, may take another decade to complete. When finished, it will signify the end of an era, marking a dramatic shift in the valley’s way of life.
The Reference Article チャダルハイク：冒険心を掻き立てるヒマラヤの極寒トレッキング体験
